|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 40'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Crossing on Jul 23, 2010|
|Comments on Fern Crack||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Apr 2, 2012
Do NOT place pro in the thin crack at the bulge 3/4 of the way up. The thin 1"-2" flake that resides in this crack will likely break or at the very least not hold pro in the event of a fall. Very hollow and loose. You could run it out- the bulge is the best part of the route, but if your piece pulls, the fall won't be entirely clean.
A better option is to place a #5 if you have it under the bulge to the right and follow the juggy traverse to a ledge- although this probably knocks this one down to a 5.6 if you choose this way. From the ledge, place a stopper under the lip of the layback dihedral and pull fun moves all the way to the belay. The escape is very loose, but easy. Squeeze chimney to finish and walk off. Fun route.
By Bob Johnson
From: Philadelphia, PA
May 25, 2014
|The chimney is VERY unstable. I was climbing this yesterday, got to the chimney, stood up and about 1000 pounds of rock pulled out and tumbled down the face of the cliff. Unbelievably, none of us were hurt. There is still probably a lot of loose rock up there. Due to the rock fall, there is now a large boulder on the ledge halfway up that is loose and is ready to fall.|
By Chris Irwin
From: Silver Spring, Maryland
Jun 26, 2016
Just climbed this today.
I think it's a bad idea to place pro on either side of the flake in the center of the wide crack of the bulge. When I pulled on it- like a pinch- small chockstones rattled out as I flexed the flake.
There is good gear just below the bulge, and perhaps a #5 or #6 BD cam could be place in the bulge crack (ignoring the floating flake).
The chimney at the top is actually stable, it is the stacked blocks and blocks in the back of the chimney that are a bit concerning, but not a death trap.
By Brendan Maguire
Aug 26, 2016
|The thin flake inside the wide crack will break if you place gear in it. You might be able to place a number 6 C4 or a big bro in the very wide crack on the bulge|