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This is an organizational entry suggested by one our users to help with clarify crag locations for those less familiar. This is a minor gully/canyon on the NE side of Bear Peak in the southern half of the Flatirons. It hosts numberous shorter 1-2 pitch climbs of a moderate to advanced level of difficulty. The approach is often 45-60 minutes, although the hike itself is a bonus for the day. Nonetheless, there are some beautiful routes in this area. The great majority of routes here are face climbs. Many routes have a southerly aspect, which permits wonderful climbing on sunny fall & winter days.
The closest approach is likely from NCAR at the West end of Table Mesa at the south end of Boulder. From here, hike West to the Mesa Trail, go South on the trail down into the Bear Canyon drainage, continue up to the Fern Canyon sign. Ascend this pretty trail to various point at which you wander NW toward the route of choice.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fern Canyon:
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Fluorescent Gray 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a R CO : Flatirons : ... : East Ridge
This route is located just above the huge gap in the East Ridge. It follows a beautiful face just right of a jagged, left-leaning arete. Start with the burley, slightly overhanging hand and finger crack in a gully. A few 5.10 moves right off the deck lead to a thin, reachy 11b section (lower crux). Continue up to a broken ledge with a small tree below the first bolt. Gear isn't great at the ledge, I slung a horn but some tricky nut placements may also work to protect the moves up to the firs...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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