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DescriptionThis is an organizational entry suggested by one our users to help with clarify crag locations for those less familiar. This is a minor gully/canyon on the NE side of Bear Peak in the southern half of the Flatirons. It hosts numberous shorter 1-2 pitch climbs of a moderate to advanced level of difficulty. The approach is often 45-60 minutes, although the hike itself is a bonus for the day. Nonetheless, there are some beautiful routes in this area. The great majority of routes here are face climbs. Many routes have a southerly aspect, which permits wonderful climbing on sunny fall & winter days. Getting ThereThe closest approach is likely from NCAR at the West end of Table Mesa at the south end of Boulder. From here, hike West to the Mesa Trail, go South on the trail down into the Bear Canyon drainage, continue up to the Fern Canyon sign. Ascend this pretty trail to various point at which you wander NW toward the route of choice. Useful Links for Raptor ClosuresPer fossana: The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fern Canyon:
East Face/Fiddle Head 5.4 Trad Fiddlehead
East Face/Pellea 5.5 R Trad, 3 pitches Pellea
Rads For Rookies 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch Nebel Horn Ridge
Rainbow Bridge 5.9 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch Nebel Horn Ridge
Irish Spring 5.9+ PG13 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Fiddlehead
Power Bacon 5.10a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Southern Goose Egg
Leprechaun Promenade 5.10b R Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet Fiddlehead
Fountain of Youth 5.10b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch East Ridge
A Shadow Sickness 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Fiddlehead
Edgemaster 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet East Ridge
False Gods, Real Men 5.10c Trad, Sport Nebel Horn Ridge
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint 5.10d Trad, 2 pitches Fiddlehead
Everpresent Lane 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet East Ridge
Iron Cross 5.11b Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 100 feet East Ridge
Fluorescent Gray 5.11c R Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet East Ridge
Castles Made of Sand 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch Fiddlehead
Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber 5.12- Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet East Ridge
Exile 5.12a/b Sport East Ridge
Chains of Love 5.12b Trad, Sport, 2 pitches Fiddlehead
Superfresh 5.12d Sport, 1 pitch Superfresh Boulder
Featured Route For Fern Canyon
Violator 5.13b/c CO : Flatirons : ... : Nebel Horn Ridge
Violator is a long way up Fern Canyon and just right of the classic Ruby Slipper. Technical arete climbing, great positioning, and hard boulder problems define the route. Solo up the first 25 feet of low-angle 5.0 rock or place nut or two to protect this access. Steep bouldery moves climb out left past the first two bolts. Barn door arete moves climb past the third and fourth bolts. An awkward move takes the climbing onto the right side of the arete past the fifth...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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