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Fern Canyon
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Fern Canyon 


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Elevation: 7,000'
Lat, Long: 39.965, -105.2885 Map
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 17, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: When seen from the South, Fern Canyon reveals its ...

Description 

This is an organizational entry suggested by one our users to help with clarify crag locations for those less familiar. This is a minor gully/canyon on the NE side of Bear Peak in the southern half of the Flatirons. It hosts numberous shorter 1-2 pitch climbs of a moderate to advanced level of difficulty. The approach is often 45-60 minutes, although the hike itself is a bonus for the day. Nonetheless, there are some beautiful routes in this area. The great majority of routes here are face climbs. Many routes have a southerly aspect, which permits wonderful climbing on sunny fall & winter days.

Crags accessed from this Fern Canyon Trail include: Nebel Horn Ridge, Onoclea, Pellea, East Ridge, Fiddlehead, The Goose Eggs, The Goose, Mars Block, & Seal Rock. However, for the purpose of this organization, we'll include those crags ordinarily approached from the Fern Canyon trail: Nebel Horn, East Ridge, Onoclea, Pellea, Fiddlehead, The Goose Eggs, & Mars Block.

Some fine routes here include: East Face/S Goose Egg, 5.2 R; East Face/Pellea, 5.5 R; Rad for Rookies, 8; Rainbow Bridge, 9; Fountain of Youth, 10; A Shadow Sickness, 10; Edgemaster, 10; Leprechaun Promenade, 10 R; Everpresent Lane, 10+; Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint, 10+; Ilga Grimpeur, 11; Lightning Bolt Arete, 11; the short but gorgeous Ruby Slipper, 11; Fluorescent Gray, 11 R; Slabmaster, 12-, Exile, 12-; Castles Made of Sand, 12-; Chains of Love, 12; & the controversial but historically significant Superfresh, 12+.


Getting There 

The closest approach is likely from NCAR at the West end of Table Mesa at the south end of Boulder. From here, hike West to the Mesa Trail, go South on the trail down into the Bear Canyon drainage, continue up to the Fern Canyon sign. Ascend this pretty trail to various point at which you wander NW toward the route of choice.


Useful Links for Raptor Closures 

Per fossana:

www.bouldercolorado.gov/files/openspace/maps/regulatory/Fern>>>

www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&task=vi>>>


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fern Canyon:
East Face/Fiddle Head   5.4     Trad   Fiddlehead
East Face/Pellea   5.5 R     Trad, 3 pitches   Pellea
Rads For Rookies   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch   Nebel Horn Ridge
Rainbow Bridge   5.9     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   Nebel Horn Ridge
Irish Spring   5.9+ PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Fiddlehead
Power Bacon   5.10a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Southern Goose Egg
Leprechaun Promenade   5.10b R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Fiddlehead
Fountain of Youth   5.10b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   East Ridge
A Shadow Sickness   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Fiddlehead
Edgemaster   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   East Ridge
False Gods, Real Men   5.10c     Trad, Sport   Nebel Horn Ridge
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint   5.10d     Trad, 2 pitches   Fiddlehead
Everpresent Lane   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   East Ridge
Iron Cross   5.11b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 100 feet   East Ridge
Fluorescent Gray   5.11c R     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   East Ridge
Castles Made of Sand   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch   Fiddlehead
Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber   5.12-     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   East Ridge
Exile   5.12a/b     Sport   East Ridge
Chains of Love   5.12b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches   Fiddlehead
Superfresh   5.12d     Sport, 1 pitch   Superfresh Boulder
Browse More Classics in Fern Canyon

Featured Route For Fern Canyon
Colin Lantz - 3rd bolt clip.

Violator 5.13b/c  CO : Flatirons : ... : Nebel Horn Ridge
Violator is a long way up Fern Canyon and just right of the classic Ruby Slipper. Technical arete climbing, great positioning, and hard boulder problems define the route. Solo up the first 25 feet of low-angle 5.0 rock or place nut or two to protect this access. Steep bouldery moves climb out left past the first two bolts. Barn door arete moves climb past the third and fourth bolts. An awkward move takes the climbing onto the right side of the arete past the fifth...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Fern Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
The Nebel Horn from the north ridge of Bear Peak.

The Nebel Horn from the north ridge of Bear Peak.

Since the route "Superfresh" is often referenced as a locator, I thought I'd include a photo of it.

Since the route "Superfresh" is often referenced a...

Fern Canyon.

Fern Canyon.