Fern Buttress Rock Climbing
Before the Williams guidebooks, Fern Buttress was considered part of Endless Wall.
Now, with many quality routes to its credit, and clear boundaries of Fayette Station Road on one end, and Fern Creek on the other, Fern Buttress has grown to be known as a destination crag all its own.
Whether it's the super clean, awe-inspiring bolted sport lines like Welcome to Conditioning and Just Send It, or the plethora of fantastic cracks, or the off-the-beaten-path short classics, Fern Buttress can be a welcome respite to the overwhelming crowds that can sometimes be found at moderate NRG sport crags. If you're new to placing gear, enjoy aesthetic classics, or if you enjoy tiny holds on immaculate faces, you'll find yourself right at home here.
There are three ways to approach Fern Buttress.
First, you can park in the designated pull off on Fayette Station Road. For any of the crags from Arm Forces area to Orchard Wall, this is the best way in.
For access to the Fern Creek Falls area to Star Trek Wall, you can park in the Fern Creek parking area off Lansing Edmond Rd. Take the Endless wall trail in heading toward Fern Creek. When you get to the Bridge, you can either cross the bridge and continue to the Fern Creek ladders (which will actually spit you out on the opposite side of Fern Creek- at the beginning of Endless Wall) or you can hang a right at the bridge, skirt the lip of the cliff on a trail, and rap in. There is usually a makeshift rappel station on the tree above the 5.8 crack route Night Moves.
Weather station 5.0 miles from here
65 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',12],['3 Stars',31],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Fern Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Fern Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Fern Buttress:
Featured Route For Fern Buttress
Two Bag Face 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
: The New River Gorge
: ... : Workmen's Buttress
Climb up the chimney formed by a detached block. Step left off the top of the block onto the face, clip a glue-in bolt, and then head into a small crack, finding gear as you go. From the seam, pull up onto a sizeable ledge. Follow smallish holds up to large horizontals trending left, toward the arête. Move across the arête to the left side, take in the view and exposure and follow generous but spaced horizontals to bolted anchors at the top.The direct start to this route is R rated unless y...[more] Browse More Classics in WV