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Fern Buttress

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Fern Buttress Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.0607, -81.0671 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,844
Administrators: Ladd, Chris Whisenhunt, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd on Apr 11, 2007
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Hands down the best moderate exposed route in the ...

Description 

Before the Williams guidebooks, Fern Buttress was considered part of Endless Wall.

Now, with many quality routes to its credit, and clear boundaries of Fayette Station Road on one end, and Fern Creek on the other, Fern Buttress has grown to be known as a destination crag all its own.

Whether it's the super clean, awe-inspiring bolted sport lines like Welcome to Conditioning and Just Send It, or the plethora of fantastic cracks, or the off-the-beaten-path short classics, Fern Buttress can be a welcome respite to the overwhelming crowds that can sometimes be found at moderate NRG sport crags. If you're new to placing gear, enjoy aesthetic classics, or if you enjoy tiny holds on immaculate faces, you'll find yourself right at home here.

Getting There 

There are three ways to approach Fern Buttress.

First, you can park in the designated pull off on Fayette Station Road. For any of the crags from Arm Forces area to Orchard Wall, this is the best way in.

For access to the Fern Creek Falls area to Star Trek Wall, you can park in the Fern Creek parking area off Lansing Edmond Rd. Take the Endless wall trail in heading toward Fern Creek. When you get to the Bridge, you can either cross the bridge and continue to the Fern Creek ladders (which will actually spit you out on the opposite side of Fern Creek- at the beginning of Endless Wall) or you can hang a right at the bridge, skirt the lip of the cliff on a trail, and rap in. There is usually a makeshift rappel station on the tree above the 5.8 crack route Night Moves.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.0 miles from here

65 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',12],['3 Stars',31],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',7],['5.10',18],['5.11',16],['5.12',12],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Fern Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Fern Buttress:
Hysteria   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Orchard Wall
The Wrath of Khan   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Star Trek Wall
Goofer's Retreat   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Ritz Cracker Area
Emerald Dance   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 100'   Thieves Area
Two Bag Face   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Workmen's Buttress
Ritz Cracker   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 90'   Ritz Cracker Area
Triple Treat   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 70'   Orchard Wall
Crescenta   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Ritz Cracker Area
Fragile Ego System   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Wild Seed Area
Anal Clenching Adventures   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 50'   Orchard Wall
Springboard   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 70'   Orchard Wall
Two-Tone Arete   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Thieves Area
Shiny Faces   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 60'   Orchard Wall
Wild Seed   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   Wild Seed Area
Grand Space   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Orchard Wall
Fly Girls   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   Wild Seed Area
Jug Rash   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 70'   Ritz Cracker Area
Fall Line   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Fern Creek Falls
Portly Gentleman's Route   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 70'   Orchard Wall
Welcome to Conditioning   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Just Send It Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Fern Buttress

Featured Route For Fern Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: My brother coming up third on Ritz

Ritz Cracker 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Ritz Cracker Area
One of the coolest easy splitter cracks in the NRG. Looks like someone just grabbed the rock and pulled it apart. Starts in a hand/fat hand crack and goes up a slabby to vertical face with the crack narrowing to fingers at the top. From here, you can either build an anchor on the ledge with horizontals above the big Hueco and bring up your second, or you can place a piece, sling it long and cruise the short but beautiful dihedral to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

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