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 ADVANCED
Gus Fruh aka Fern Bar Area
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Betwixt TR 
Chicken Supreme S,TR 
Egg Salad Sandwich TR 
Fern Bar S 
Gros Ventre S 
Heir Apparent S 
Iranian Arms Deal S 
Rock Retard S 
Thumb Dance S 

Fern Bar 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Keith Guillory
Page Views: 956
Submitted By: Matt Richardson on Jun 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Description 

Start just right of Iranian Arms Deal on a thin face. The first crux is just making the first clip off of the thin, greasy holds. Once on the ledge above the first bolt, man up and clip the fixed pin before following the line of ferns across multiple slopey ledges. Finish by manteling onto the sloping topout.


Location 

Route is located immediately to the right of Iranian Arms Deal toward the center of this area.


Protection 

4 bolts plus anchors



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By Mike Hulse
Nov 17, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Difficult start up to the ledge and difficult finish up to the chains. Many people get off this climb annoyed because of the relative difficulty of this climb compared to 5.9s everywhere else on the Green Belt. I think it might be closer to a 5.10a just because it's not intuitive.

By Chance Copeland
From: Austin, TX
Sep 29, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Mike's comments are accurate. There is always a lot of discussion about this climb's grade. I don't want to waste too much energy talking about it since I'm not very fond of the climb, but it certainly was "surprisingly difficult" to me. Although I flashed it (on top rope) successfully, the top of the climb made me upset.

By Ryan Levihn-Coon
From: Austin, Texas
Feb 20, 2014

Yeah, the chains of set back on the slab, often-chossy top-out. Some feel safer clipping the chains of 'Ventre and topping-out there, clipping the chains on route, and then down-climbing and unclipping from the chains out right. It can be a throw to the slabby ledge you might not be able to see. Take note of the crazy grooves ropes have dug through the years where the rope comes over the top-out from the chains above it.