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Fenton-Oslund Route 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Renn Fenton and Peter Oslund circa 1965
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 286
Submitted By: Brent Larsen on Oct 3, 2011

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A great 5.8 with just enough of a fright factor an...

Description 

A great trad climb with just enough of a spook factor to give it a hint of headiness and an impending sense of danger. Much more than Goldline.

Starts in the boulder field. Work your way up a crack system and move to the right into a larger crack system. The crux is escaping the pod you encounter about halfway up. The protection is good here, use some larger nuts and/or some smaller cams.

Once you have escaped the pod you'll find yourself at a face with some crumbly, yellow rock. Move left and around the corner to gain access to a ramp enclosed in a chimney feature.

Place a larger cam in the crack in the ramp of the chimney if you feel the need and work your way to the anchors. Summit register is a short hike to a larger summit above the rap anchor.

Enjoy the airy repel! This is a very doable climb for competant leaders who are good at judging safe gear placements and have a good lead head capable of convincing the body to just keep moving up.

Location 

Down the hill from Goldline and Sore Thumb.

Protection 

Standard Rack. Bring bigger nuts and a few tricams. Use long slings to give yourself plenty of extension to avoid rope drag.


Photos of Fenton-Oslund Route Slideshow Add Photo
Exclamation Point, 5.8+ route
Exclamation Point, 5.8+ route
Exclamation Point! Great repel.
Exclamation Point! Great repel.
Great crack systems and a hair raising finish.
Great crack systems and a hair raising finish.
Exclamation Point!
Exclamation Point!

Comments on Fenton-Oslund Route Add Comment
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By Brent Kertzman
From: Black Hills, SD
Oct 4, 2011

I believe this route is the "Fenton-Oslund Route" originally rated 5.7. First ascent by Renn Fenton and Pete Oslund, May 30,1965,