Fenton-Oslund Route 5.8+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Renn Fenton and Peter Oslund circa 1965 |
| Season: | Spring, Summer, Fall |
| Submitted By: | Brent Larsen on Oct 3, 2011 |
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Exclamation Point! Great repel.
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Description A great trad climb with just enough of a spook factor to give it a hint of headiness and an impending sense of danger. Much more than Goldline. Starts in the boulder field. Work your way up a crack system and move to the right into a larger crack system. The crux is escaping the pod you encounter about halfway up. The protection is good here, use some larger nuts and/or some smaller cams. Once you have escaped the pod you'll find yourself at a face with some crumbly, yellow rock. Move left and around the corner to gain access to a ramp enclosed in a chimney feature. Place a larger cam in the crack in the ramp of the chimney if you feel the need and work your way to the anchors. Summit register is a short hike to a larger summit above the rap anchor. Enjoy the airy repel! This is a very doable climb for competant leaders who are good at judging safe gear placements and have a good lead head capable of convincing the body to just keep moving up.
Location Down the hill from Goldline and Sore Thumb.
Protection Standard Rack. Bring bigger nuts and a few tricams. Use long slings to give yourself plenty of extension to avoid rope drag.
Exclamation Point, 5.8+ route
| Great crack systems and a hair raising finish.
| A great 5.8 with just enough of a fright factor an...
| Exclamation Point!
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| Comments on Fenton-Oslund Route |
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By Brent Kertzman From: Black Hills, SD Oct 4, 2011
| I believe this route is the "Fenton-Oslund Route" originally rated 5.7. First ascent by Renn Fenton and Pete Oslund, May 30,1965, |
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