A great trad climb with just enough of a spook factor to give it a hint of headiness and an impending sense of danger. Much more than Goldline.
Starts in the boulder field. Work your way up a crack system and move to the right into a larger crack system. The crux is escaping the pod you encounter about halfway up. The protection is good here, use some larger nuts and/or some smaller cams.
Once you have escaped the pod you'll find yourself at a face with some crumbly, yellow rock. Move left and around the corner to gain access to a ramp enclosed in a chimney feature.
Place a larger cam in the crack in the ramp of the chimney if you feel the need and work your way to the anchors. Summit register is a short hike to a larger summit above the rap anchor.
Enjoy the airy repel! This is a very doable climb for competant leaders who are good at judging safe gear placements and have a good lead head capable of convincing the body to just keep moving up.
Down the hill from Goldline and Sore Thumb.
Standard Rack. Bring bigger nuts and a few tricams. Use long slings to give yourself plenty of extension to avoid rope drag.
Exclamation Point, 5.8+ route
Exclamation Point! Great repel.
Great crack systems and a hair raising finish.
|By Brent Kertzman|
From: Black Hills, SD
Oct 4, 2011
I believe this route is the "Fenton-Oslund Route" originally rated 5.7. First ascent by Renn Fenton and Pete Oslund, May 30,1965,