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Chair Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blues for Allah T 
Destination Unknown T,S 
Fender Route (Water Music) T 
Low Pressure T 
no name 5.12d or 5.13a thin crack aka Adrift with the Bajau T,TR 
Right Stuff T 
Thin Ice T 
Toot Suite aka Toot Suit T 
Unsorted Routes:

Fender Route (Water Music) 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Fender
Page Views: 697
Submitted By: Allen Hill on Apr 6, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: This is the line visible from below. It is a lot ...

Description 

More and more as I drive towards Deckers, I've been noticing cars parked at the old Top of the World road. Looks like people are walking in. So, here are a few of my favorites.

On the backside (north side) of Chair Rocks is this great old route. Climb the wide crack on the left side, and finish with a great set of face moves protected by a bolt.

Per Jeremy Hakes: This route is on the north face of Chair Rocks, the tallest formation on this ranked Jefferson County Peak. The route is on the NE corner, facing north, just east of the large tree. The first 15-20' or so are decent foot/hand jams, but then the crack deepens, widens, and flares as it goes higher. The first pitch is about 170' long. Bring doubles or triples of #3s, 4s, and 5s. No fixed gear exists on P1. About 100' up, a small indentation exists on the climber's right, but it is 2' outside the crack you are climbing. It runs out after about 10'. Then a small indentation crack exists on the climber's left, temping you out of the crack, but no pro exists anywhere but in the crack. It is fairly unenjoyable. The very soft "arete" on your left finally dies into a jug, and then the P1 difficulties are over, the grade dropping to 5.4 or so for the last 20+'. A small belay ledge with a pothole exists below the bolts for P2. Not much to build a belay station with up here. P2 goes at a thin 5.9, but is over in about 10', ending with an awkward mantle move. Someone has removed the last bolt protecting this move. Pull up and over onto some sharp crystals, and head over to the main summit block. Cross the off-width (4th class) below you (another route goes up here, but is an awkward bulging squeeze chimney). Cross onto the main summit and tie into the 4 bolts here.

Location 

Rappel 120 feet from anchors.

Per Jeremy Hakes: NE corner of the north face of Chair Rocks. There is only 1 obvious line on this corner, then west a large, blank, slightly overhanging face, then Thin Ice 5.12c/d on the NW corner, followed by another potential route with rappel slings to the climber's left.
From the very top of the formation, low-angle rappel north to the lower rappel bolts (1 newer bolt, 1 older aluminum hanger bolt, 1 ringed piton "bolt") and rappel off the north face (170').

Protection 

Wide gear.

Per Jeremy Hakes: Cams from #2 up to a #5. A #6 would even work in a few spots. Doubles of all of these, except the #6. There are 2 bolts and a chopped bolt for protection on the short P2 (awkward mantle to top out). 4 bolts on the top of the formation for a low angle rappel to the north.


Photos of Fender Route (Water Music) Slideshow Add Photo
From Hubbel's Brown Book of Lies.
BETA PHOTO: From Hubbel's Brown Book of Lies.
Chris Orwat on top rope, 1st pitch.
Chris Orwat on top rope, 1st pitch.
This is the short thin crux of P2.  A 3rd bolt her...
BETA PHOTO: This is the short thin crux of P2. A 3rd bolt her...
Tree belay at the bottom of the crack.
BETA PHOTO: Tree belay at the bottom of the crack.
Jason Halladay on led, 1st pitch.
Jason Halladay on led, 1st pitch.
Looking across the north face from east to west.
BETA PHOTO: Looking across the north face from east to west.
Jason Halladay on rappel.
Jason Halladay on rappel.

Comments on Fender Route (Water Music) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeremy Hakes
From: Golden, Colorado
Jun 27, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Hubbel's "Brown Book of Lies" calls this route, "Chamber Music". He does correctly show the route, though. Interesting!
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 24, 2009

A few comments on this route...
  • Taping up your ankles, as well as your hands, is a good idea as they're likely to get chewed up a bit.
  • An old #5 Camalot or new #6 Camalot will make you much happier near the top of P1.
  • Racking all the gear on your right side and going into the crack with your left side is probably the best choice.
  • The first pitch is probably closer to 110 feet, not 170.
  • The lack of a third bolt on P2 isn't a big deal--the two that are there protect it well (but they are 1/4" bolts with weird hangers so fall softly).