Fender Route (Water Music)
BETA PHOTO: This is the line visible from below. It is a lot ...
More and more as I drive towards Deckers, I've been noticing cars parked at the old Top of the World road. Looks like people are walking in. So, here are a few of my favorites.
On the backside (north side) of Chair Rocks is this great old route. Climb the wide crack on the left side, and finish with a great set of face moves protected by a bolt.
Per Jeremy Hakes: This route is on the north face of Chair Rocks, the tallest formation on this ranked Jefferson County Peak. The route is on the NE corner, facing north, just east of the large tree. The first 15-20' or so are decent foot/hand jams, but then the crack deepens, widens, and flares as it goes higher. The first pitch is about 170' long. Bring doubles or triples of #3s, 4s, and 5s. No fixed gear exists on P1. About 100' up, a small indentation exists on the climber's right, but it is 2' outside the crack you are climbing. It runs out after about 10'. Then a small indentation crack exists on the climber's left, temping you out of the crack, but no pro exists anywhere but in the crack. It is fairly unenjoyable. The very soft "arete" on your left finally dies into a jug, and then the P1 difficulties are over, the grade dropping to 5.4 or so for the last 20+'. A small belay ledge with a pothole exists below the bolts for P2. Not much to build a belay station with up here. P2 goes at a thin 5.9, but is over in about 10', ending with an awkward mantle move. Someone has removed the last bolt protecting this move. Pull up and over onto some sharp crystals, and head over to the main summit block. Cross the off-width (4th class) below you (another route goes up here, but is an awkward bulging squeeze chimney). Cross onto the main summit and tie into the 4 bolts here.
Rappel 120 feet from anchors.
Per Jeremy Hakes: NE corner of the north face of Chair Rocks. There is only 1 obvious line on this corner, then west a large, blank, slightly overhanging face, then Thin Ice 5.12c/d on the NW corner, followed by another potential route with rappel slings to the climber's left.
From the very top of the formation, low-angle rappel north to the lower rappel bolts (1 newer bolt, 1 older aluminum hanger bolt, 1 ringed piton "bolt") and rappel off the north face (170').
Per Jeremy Hakes: Cams from #2 up to a #5. A #6 would even work in a few spots. Doubles of all of these, except the #6. There are 2 bolts and a chopped bolt for protection on the short P2 (awkward mantle to top out). 4 bolts on the top of the formation for a low angle rappel to the north.
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|Comments on Fender Route (Water Music)
|By Jeremy Hakes|
From: Golden, Colorado
Jun 27, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Hubbel's "Brown Book of Lies" calls this route, "Chamber Music". He does correctly show the route, though. Interesting!
|By Jason Halladay|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 24, 2009
A few comments on this route...
- Taping up your ankles, as well as your hands, is a good idea as they're likely to get chewed up a bit.
- An old #5 Camalot or new #6 Camalot will make you much happier near the top of P1.
- Racking all the gear on your right side and going into the crack with your left side is probably the best choice.
- The first pitch is probably closer to 110 feet, not 170.
- The lack of a third bolt on P2 isn't a big deal--the two that are there protect it well (but they are 1/4" bolts with weird hangers so fall softly).