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Jailhouse Rock
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Felon 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: 5.12d
Page Views: 105
Submitted By: Daniel Trugman on May 5, 2013
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Private property with a public access easement and conservation easement allowing climbing held by the Access Fund. Critical to see current requirements and restrictions. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Neat route, especially if you are into thin face-climbing. One of easier 5.12+'s at the Jailhouse.

Begin with a few crack/undercling moves with poor feet, climbing up to a nice no-hands rest right of the third bolt. Traverse up and left on small holds, making a reachy or quite powerful 4th clip. Crank through a series of small crimps with the help of some technical footwork. Ooze over the bulge and catch another great rest, level with the seventh bolt. Fire through one more cool boulder problem (bigger moves, bigger holds this time), and slab your way to the anchors.


Location 

First route immediately left of the warm-ups. RIght side of the Jailhouse.


Protection 

8 bolts, the last seven of which are fixed draws. Bring your own quickdraw (and an attentive belayer) for the first clip, or stick clip the second.



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