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Maybird East Side
Routes Sorted
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Black Cats S 
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Feline Stall Tactics T 
Pentapussy T 
PetThePussy T 

Feline Stall Tactics 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Luke Douglas & Bobby Gray, June 2006
Page Views: 1,775
Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Jun 30, 2007

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Getting ready for the crux.

Description 

Feline Stall Tactics starts in a crack inside a small dihedral to the left of the primary corner. It climbs over the arete and into this primary corner system. This section of the climb is shared with Pentapussy. There are some cool fingerlocks and stems inside the main corner system. Climb the handcrack that diagonals up and to the left through the crux roof and enjoy the sweet flake above. Rather than aiming directly for the tree, climb the slab above the flake and then downclimb to the tree for a little extra fun.

Location 

Feline Stall Tactics starts in a small dihedral to the left of the left side of a bush to get into the small dihedral. There are slings around the huge pine tree growing out of the arete. You can rappel from here to the base of the gully with a 60 meter rope.

Protection 

Standard rack-small nuts to a 3" cam. Bring a few long runners to reduce rope drag. There are slings around a tree for an anchor. No fixed protection.


Photos of Feline Stall Tactics Slideshow Add Photo
Flakes like this are hard to resist...
Flakes like this are hard to resist...
Ben at the start.
BETA PHOTO: Ben at the start.
Live  anchor tree for Feline Stall Tactics
BETA PHOTO: Live anchor tree for Feline Stall Tactics

Comments on Feline Stall Tactics Add Comment
Show which comments
By BobGray
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 1, 2007

If only everyone knew the story behind the name. What a great climb, grabbing the upper flake for the first time was a very nerve racking experience, but a quality climb none the less. Enjoy!
By k. riemondy
From: Boulder, Co
Sep 22, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If this climb were at the gate, then half the route would break off in a week. The top part of the climb is highly reminiscent of the zion curtain pitch on arm and hammer. Use caution.
By Pete Spri
Jun 15, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route. Just a little too short, but a great lead for anyone in the 5.8 range.
By paintrain
Sep 28, 2009

Its a heads up 5.8. Great climbing, but consider what you are pulling on and putting your feet on. It would have a line if it were at the gate, but it would soon be a different climb as well.

A couple extra hand sized pieces would have been useful. Long runners also, as it wanders around a little bit.
By Michael Buchanan
Aug 17, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

What an awesome route, if only it were longer/multi-pitch! The mini-zion curtain flake is awesome! The climbs starts really sweet and the bulge is sweet! Destined to be a classic.
By cdec
From: SLC and Moab, ut
Jul 30, 2011

I was excited to get on this route after seeing the comparison to the Zion Curtain. About the only thing similar is that both pitches are rock. Comparing the two pitches is a crime. One is beautiful, long, exposed and clean. The other is this.

Saying that this thing wouldn't remain the same at the gate is being as delicate as one should be climbing the "flakes". Easy enough but frightful. At some point something big is coming down.

Feline stall tactics:
Easy corner to a single hand jam. Contiue up through scary flakes to stacked blocks. Finish and use 1/2 dead tree for anchor.
By Luke Douglas
Sep 25, 2011

Very alive tree anchor above chossy climb