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BETA PHOTO: Feeling Edgy, 5.10.
This route is directly left of the Honey Pot Chimney. Feeling Edgy has three bolts on it, and the rest uses gear. The route wanders around the face and the arete. The bottom is probably the most physical section of climbing, and the top is probably the coolest. When getting to the second bolt, head climber's right to a short, splitter, thin hands crack, then traverse left into the bolt. I thought any fall on this route would be a little weird and uncomfortable, but the route does not deserve an R rating.
This is directly left of the Honey Pot Chimney. The extremely low first bolt is a good signal that you have found the right route. This can be used as an alternate approach pitch to the Y-Crack
3 bolts, I took a double rack of cams, but we were planning to climb the Y-Crack
as a second pitch before we had to bail because of rain and lightning. A 70m rope will get you to the base of the Y-Crack
. Feeling Edgy has a bolted anchor.
From: San Juans, CO
Jun 25, 2013
FA: Bill Kees.
By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Aug 1, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
This is a fantastic route with interesting movement, lots of rests, and an exposed feel. No moves are harder than 5.9 and protection is abundant. In fact, for a taller climber, it will feel more like 5.8.