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J Crags
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Feeding the Rat - Part II 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 670', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Paul Ross, John Glime, Sept 15/2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,410
Submitted By: USBRIT on Sep 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

The climb starts on the inner right (north) side of the impressive Bongo Canyon . The Route takes the slab ramp that leads to a long crack system of perfect rock that forms the top two pitches. Classic for the area.

(P1. Climb onto the slab trending up to the left past two bolts and a #3 friend placement to a flake/crack and good ledge. Double anchors. 130' 5.8
(P2. Climb up to the right of the ledge then head up leftwards passed a thin flake to a bolt .Move right from the bolt ,then back left to double anchors below the crack/corner. 190'5.9-
(P3 Follow superb crack system on excellent rock to double anchors. 200' 5.5-. (P4. More crack to a fine summit. 150' 5.5-.

Descent:- Rap the route.


Location 

North side of Bongo Canyon. This is a large amphitheater located about 20 mins walk south of the Univa trail head. It has very dark rock on its steep south side ,were the route 5.12 route Silver Lining is located.


Protection 

Cams 1/2" to 3.5 Friends ,stoppers Two 60m ropes



Photos of Feeding the Rat - Part II Slideshow Add Photo
Paul Ross On the first pitch
Paul Ross On the first pitch
Swell swimming pool
Swell swimming pool
Paul Ross on Pitch 2
Paul Ross on Pitch 2
John topping out pitch 3 . Looking down on the canyon pools 500' below.
John topping out pitch 3 . Looking down on the can...
(A)Heart of Stone 5.7+. (B)Aguille Du Tangelo.5.4R.(C)Feeding the Rat.5.9-R.
BETA PHOTO: (A)Heart of Stone 5.7+. (B)Aguille Du Tangelo.5.4R...
Paul starting the 150' pitch 4
Paul starting the 150' pitch 4
Slightly wider view of the starting pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Slightly wider view of the starting pitch.
John on the summit with the dark wall down to the right of the 5.12 route Silver Lining
John on the summit with the dark wall down to the ...
Comments on Feeding the Rat - Part II Add Comment
Show which comments
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 18, 2007

In case there is any doubt, Paul is the Rat.

By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Sep 19, 2007

I resemble that remark !Actually the route was named after a book title "Feeding the Rat" that tells the life style of an old Brit friend of mine Mo Anthoine (now deceased). A great character, who like myself had to keep returning to the risk of climbing to help overcome some of the problems of life..............

By greg t
May 27, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

The first two pitches have some interesting slab moves, but the last two crack pitches are more like hiking up a steep gully. The second pitch sports 1 bolt, that is well placed considering the crux, but getting to the bolt is long way on some debatable rock, and a potential fall would be extremely unpleasant. Overall I wouldn't recommend this climb, but if you do it, make sure to bring some extra webbing for the anchors.

By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Jun 18, 2013

Thanks for your review. The hiking up " steep gullies" of the last two pitches as you call them are very pleasant 5.5- perfect rock/ easy cracks to a very nice summit with great views...not everything with climbing is about grades.However I see you have up graded from our 5.9- to 5.9+.PG13.Suggest you do not get onto some of the higher grade climbs in this area ,or those that sport a R.

By greg t
Nov 25, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Ive only gotten on a handful of the routes in the area. Most of which were fun and memorable. I think I stick to my opinion, which is just that, about the rating. On pitch 2, I got 1 good cam right off the belay, then 1 bad cam in the crack 15ftish below the first bolt. The climbing in between the cams isnt too hard, but far and the rock is questionable in sections. A blown hold would result in extreme unpleasantness. In general climbing terms, I think this would support a pg13. I think a 9- vs 9+ is kind of splitting hairs, but to send a 5.9 leader up this would be a bit of sandbag. Hence the 9+ pg13. As far as the stars, please refer to just my opinion. Opinions aside, I appreciate the work putting up routes in these areas and sharing them for others to enjoy. -cheers

By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Nov 26, 2013

Good one Greg .I really appreciate that you get on these climbs.I think doing second ascents of these routes often has more fear factor than the first ascent.Its was the adventure and most times having the place to our selves that attracted us to this area.All the Best and watch out for those loose holds...they of course add to the fun...