Feeding the Rat - Part II 5.9-
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 670 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Paul Ross, John Glime, Sept 15/2007 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | USBRIT on Sep 17, 2007 |
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Paul Ross On the first pitch
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Description The climb starts on the inner right (north) side of the impressive Bongo Canyon . The Route takes the slab ramp that leads to a long crack system of perfect rock that forms the top two pitches. Classic for the area.
(P1. Climb onto the slab trending up to the left past two bolts and a #3 friend placement to a flake/crack and good ledge. Double anchors. 130' 5.8
(P2. Climb up to the right of the ledge then head up leftwards passed a thin flake to a bolt .Move right from the bolt ,then back left to double anchors below the crack/corner. 190'5.9-
(P3 Follow superb crack system on excellent rock to double anchors. 200' 5.5-. (P4. More crack to a fine summit. 150' 5.5-.
Descent:- Rap the route.
Location North side of Bongo Canyon. This is a large amphitheater located about 20 mins walk south of the Univa trail head. It has very dark rock on its steep south side ,were the route 5.12 route Silver Lining is located.
Protection Cams 1/2" to 3.5 Friends ,stoppers Two 60m ropes
Paul Ross on Pitch 2
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John topping out pitch 3 . Looking down on the can...
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Paul starting the 150' pitch 4
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John on the summit with the dark wall down to the ...
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BETA PHOTO: (A)Heart of Stone 5.7+. (B)Aguille Du Tangelo.5.4R...
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Swell swimming pool
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BETA PHOTO: Slightly wider view of the starting pitch.
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| Comments on Feeding the Rat - Part II |
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By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 18, 2007
| In case there is any doubt, Paul is the Rat. |
By USBRIT
Sep 19, 2007
| I resemble that remark !Actually the route was named after a book title "Feeding the Rat" that tells the life style of an old Brit friend of mine Mo Anthoine (now deceased). A great character, who like myself had to keep returning to the risk of climbing to help overcome some of the problems of life.............. |
By greg t
May 27, 2013
rating: 5.9+ PG13
| The first two pitches have some interesting slab moves, but the last two crack pitches are more like hiking up a steep gully. The second pitch sports 1 bolt, that is well placed considering the crux, but getting to the bolt is long way on some debatable rock, and a potential fall would be extremely unpleasant. Overall I wouldn't recommend this climb, but if you do it, make sure to bring some extra webbing for the anchors. |
By USBRIT
1 day ago
| Thanks for your review. The nice cruise type gullies as you call them are very pleasant 5.5- perfect rock easy cracks to a very nice summit with great views...not everything with climbing is about grades.However I see you have up graded from our 5.9- to 5.9+.PG13.Suggest you do not get onto some of the higher grade climbs in this area ,or those that sport a R. |
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