This is the short very powerful route that follows the pretty crack/flake on the right side of the cliff just before you get to the chimney of White Zombie (5.12d).
Right off the ground you are in the business with a strong and very crimpy move up and left to a decent pod. From here you move up slightly to some pretty good holds but on this steep wall they are no picnic. Then you may make use of holds out left but keeping your feet on is a challenge. A few more hard moves gets you the prize hold a nice jug a bit more than half way up. After a quick shake head out right on good holds for a more moderate but still super steep finish.
I've climbed on the route but haven't figured all of the moves so if you have specific beta please share it.
Right of Stone Monkeys (5.13b) and left of White Zombie (5.12d).
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Dec 28, 2007
Not only is it crimpy, but it's also really sharp. I blew off one of those crimps and got a huge flapper. This thing was gigantic--there was so much skin torn off my finger that it looked like it could have been a pretty good meal.
Anyway, I lowered to the ground, on the verge of tears from all the pain, and sat at the base, bleeding and whimpering for a while. I left a big puddle of blood at the base. We went back and climbed at Monsters the next day, and I was expecting to see evidence from my bloodletting from the previous day. When I went over to the base of the route, I saw that all of the blood was gone. Some animal must have lapped it up during the night. I try to remember this when I think of trying the route again.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Dec 28, 2007
how about beta... i was a little confused on how best to use the holds out left... mostly footwork stuff... i thought the crimps were sharp but i thought they felt pretty solid... i don't think the first move will be the crux for me...
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Jan 3, 2008
It has been years, but I think I used the undercling out left and did a big step through, then more dead points. The second move was the crux for me. I linked from a hang there to the top, but was never able to latch the funky thumb catch. I think it is a great route because you have to use so much body tension to maintain your precision and there can't be any hesitation in your moves.
I am really surprised that no one has done the sit down start..very hard, but I would think one of the strong boulderers would snap it off.
Kevin Jorgeson is probably a way better climber than I am. But dude, if you started standing on crash pads then IMHO you didn't do the route, rope or not. The hardest move (especially if you are short) is getting your feet off the ground.
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Feb 12, 2014
Isn't it the second move, Ward, the pop to the thumb catch, though getting in position to do that was definitely power crimping for me? I like how smooth he is moving, almost static, going through the moves from the undercling, that I am remembering as desperate pops.