Feeding Frenzy 5.13c/d
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Working the last few easy moves for when i eventua...
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Description This is the short very powerful route that follows the pretty crack/flake on the right side of the cliff just before you get to the chimney of White Zombie (5.12d).
Right off the ground you are in the business with a strong and very crimpy move up and left to a decent pod. From here you move up slightly to some pretty good holds but on this steep wall they are no picnic. Then you may make use of holds out left but keeping your feet on is a challenge. A few more hard moves gets you the prize hold a nice jug a bit more than half way up. After a quick shake head out right on good holds for a more moderate but still super steep finish.
I've climbed on the route but haven't figured all of the moves so if you have specific beta please share it.
Location Right of Stone Monkeys (5.13b) and left of White Zombie (5.12d).
Protection 4 bolts to anchor.
Trying to make use of the nice undercling out left...
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Setting up for Crux #2
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Locking down the last couple bolts
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Get ready for some convoluted beta shots: upper le...
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| Comments on Feeding Frenzy |
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By James Otey
From: NH
Dec 28, 2007
| This route is hideously crimpy... |
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Dec 28, 2007
| Not only is it crimpy, but it's also really sharp. I blew off one of those crimps and got a huge flapper. This thing was gigantic--there was so much skin torn off my finger that it looked like it could have been a pretty good meal.
Anyway, I lowered to the ground, on the verge of tears from all the pain, and sat at the base, bleeding and whimpering for a while. I left a big puddle of blood at the base. We went back and climbed at Monsters the next day, and I was expecting to see evidence from my bloodletting from the previous day. When I went over to the base of the route, I saw that all of the blood was gone. Some animal must have lapped it up during the night. I try to remember this when I think of trying the route again. |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 28, 2007
| how about beta... i was a little confused on how best to use the holds out left... mostly footwork stuff... i thought the crimps were sharp but i thought they felt pretty solid... i don't think the first move will be the crux for me... |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jan 3, 2008
| It has been years, but I think I used the undercling out left and did a big step through, then more dead points. The second move was the crux for me. I linked from a hang there to the top, but was never able to latch the funky thumb catch. I think it is a great route because you have to use so much body tension to maintain your precision and there can't be any hesitation in your moves.
I am really surprised that no one has done the sit down start..very hard, but I would think one of the strong boulderers would snap it off. |
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 18, 2009
| Kevin Jorgeson bouldering Feeding Frenzy at Nor'Easter '08. +
State Radio serenading the crowd who came out in the rain.
Be sure to watch it in High Quality!!
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