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Barnum Rock
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Feed The Sweed 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Anders Z., Dominic W., Chris M, Tony F.,
Page Views: 284
Submitted By: Anders Zway on Mar 7, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Closed to climbing, Feb 1 - Aug 31 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is the next route right of Ann Bay Lee. This is the only sport route that leads all the way to the top of Barnum Rock.

Pitch 1 / 60ft (5.8):
Start off on vertical face climbing which quickly leads to a small roof. Pull the small roof which puts you into the delicate crux section. Continue on easier climbing to anchors on top of pitch 1.

Pitch 1 is fun to do just as a single pitch if you don't wanna do or don't have time to do the whole route. It has mussy anchors to lower off

Pitch 2 / 60 ft (5.6):
The second pitches crux is the first two bolts. Climbing up and right through the crux to then hit easier terrain. Follow the bolts that roll out right and up to the second anchor on a large ledge.

Pitch 3 / 75 ft (5.8):
The last pitch leaves from the large ledge and makes its way through some beautiful rolling slabs. The end of the slabs is guarded by a small slightly overhanging crack that makes the crux of this pitch. Make the exposed crux moves through the crack and pull on to the upper clean slab. Look out left for the final bolts and moves.

Descent: Walk off to the North. Hike down hill along the west side of the wall to get back to the main wall area.

Location 

This route is the next route right of Ann Bay Lee.

Protection 

Bolts, anchors


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By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 24, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

First pitch is really good and the last two are worth doing as it reminded me of Sheepshead. Good for the moderate team. If you know how to jam the finish is not the crux.
By Hubert Cumberdale
Sep 14, 2014

Fun route. My partner and I found communication from the top to bottom of pitch 2 to be impossible. And pitch 3 has horrendous rope drag if you use standard quickdraws. Bring some extensions.
By mitchl
1 day ago

- Spacious belay ledges for pitches 1 and 2
- Pitch 2 bolt path goes off to the right at about a 45 degree angle
- Hard to communicate from the pitch 2 belay ledge- just assume you won't be able to hear each other; and you cannot see the climbers below (nor can they see their belayer)
- Don't count on throwing the rope down to the climbers from the pitch 2 belay ledge: have everyone trail a rope up that is attached to the climber below on the pitch 1 belay ledge
- The pitch 3 crux (the crack) is where you will get rope drag if you don't use a long runner- but this is where you want it snug if you don't know the good holds are up on the left. If you want extra piece of mind, then you can reach up as high as you can in the crack and put a cam in- but with a long runner.
- There's still a little bit of unprotected climbing after pitch 3 (about 8 feet), then when you reach the top, slide down the slope carefully and walk off the left side (your back is to the Feed the Sweed route you just climbed up).
- This is a very nice multi-pitch climb: terrific views, muzzy anchors to make your belay anchor set-up simple, fairly easy 5.8 climbing (pitch 1 requires the most effort).