|Type:||Sport, 3 pitches, 200'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Anders Z., Dominic W., Chris M, Tony F.,|
|Submitted By:||Anders Zway on Mar 7, 2014|
|Closed to climbing, Feb 1 - Aug 31 MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Feed The Sweed||Add Comment|
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By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 24, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|First pitch is really good and the last two are worth doing as it reminded me of Sheepshead. Good for the moderate team. If you know how to jam the finish is not the crux.|
By Justin Headley
Sep 14, 2014
|Fun route. My partner and I found communication from the top to bottom of pitch 2 to be impossible. And pitch 3 has horrendous rope drag if you use standard quickdraws. Bring some extensions.|
Nov 21, 2014
- Spacious belay ledges for pitches 1 and 2
- Pitch 2 bolt path goes off to the right at about a 45 degree angle
- Hard to communicate from the pitch 2 belay ledge- just assume you won't be able to hear each other; and you cannot see the climbers below (nor can they see their belayer)
- Don't count on throwing the rope down to the climbers from the pitch 2 belay ledge: have everyone trail a rope up that is attached to the climber below on the pitch 1 belay ledge
- The pitch 3 crux (the crack) is where you will get rope drag if you don't use a long runner- but this is where you want it snug if you don't know the good holds are up on the left. If you want extra piece of mind, then you can reach up as high as you can in the crack and put a cam in- but with a long runner.
- There's still a little bit of unprotected climbing after pitch 3 (about 8 feet), then when you reach the top, slide down the slope carefully and walk off the left side (your back is to the Feed the Sweed route you just climbed up).
- This is a very nice multi-pitch climb: terrific views, muzzy anchors to make your belay anchor set-up simple, fairly easy 5.8 climbing (pitch 1 requires the most effort).
Sep 18, 2016
You can rap off using a single 80m rope if you rap each pitch, which we did b/c I forgot to actually read the description before we climbed it. We left biners up there for this purpose.
Also, I think maybe its a good bit longer than in the description...we were almost at the ends of the rope (80m) on the rappel from the anchors to the 2nd belay station, and that's while rappelling straight down. From the 2nd belay station to the 1st, there was a little more rope left, but still I think the pitch is much longer than 60 feet. Fun easy multi pitch for my first 3 pitch lead!!