Feed The Sweed
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This route is the next route right of Ann Bay Lee. This is the only sport route that leads all the way to the top of Barnum Rock.
Pitch 1 / 60ft (5.8):
Start off on vertical face climbing which quickly leads to a small roof. Pull the small roof which puts you into the delicate crux section. Continue on easier climbing to anchors on top of pitch 1.
Pitch 1 is fun to do just as a single pitch if you don't wanna do or don't have time to do the whole route. It has mussy anchors to lower off
Pitch 2 / 60 ft (5.6):
The second pitches crux is the first two bolts. Climbing up and right through the crux to then hit easier terrain. Follow the bolts that roll out right and up to the second anchor on a large ledge.
Pitch 3 / 75 ft (5.8):
The last pitch leaves from the large ledge and makes its way through some beautiful rolling slabs. The end of the slabs is guarded by a small slightly overhanging crack that makes the crux of this pitch. Make the exposed crux moves through the crack and pull on to the upper clean slab. Look out left for the final bolts and moves.
Descent: Walk off to the North. Hike down hill along the west side of the wall to get back to the main wall area.
This route is the next route right of Ann Bay Lee.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 24, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First pitch is really good and the last two are worth doing as it reminded me of Sheepshead. Good for the moderate team. If you know how to jam the finish is not the crux.
By Hubert Cumberdale
Sep 14, 2014
Fun route. My partner and I found communication from the top to bottom of pitch 2 to be impossible. And pitch 3 has horrendous rope drag if you use standard quickdraws. Bring some extensions.