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this route up the north face is black elk's brother. just as hard (i thought) and the feather crest pitch at the top...wow!
on the north face seen from your cirque camp.
hike up the scree to the base. follow slab/ramp to the only real left facing dihedral system on the north face. follow that up to it's top, then veer right and up to another shorter left facing dihedral. from there wander up to the top and climb the runout feather crest pitch (which is nice and narrow, but not hard.) a few traversing pitchs across the top bring you to the backside walkoff down towards sundance pinicale. cut through the notch towards the trail and arrowhead lake, and back around into the cirque.
it says in a book to follow the leftfacing dihedral system, and standard rack. the dihedral system is a fat crack/squeeze/chimney. take up to a #6 camalot, or run it out like we did. . .
Aug 3, 2015
As of 8.01.15, the runout chimney pitch had a fixed rope with 'sport' clipping knots in it, making it quite safe (unfortunately changes the nature of the pitch). If you brought a #5 and #6 camalot, it would be completely protectable without the line being there. If you just bring a #4, you're going about 40-50' before getting that piece in and the climbing to get to that placement is probably about 5.8. The feather crest is about 5.7, so it too feels plenty safe, although, runout. Incredible route... every pitch (except P1, which is a kitty litter choss bucket)).
By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
Aug 25, 2015
"Some of these leads involve difficult chimneys" - Joe Kelsey