feather buttress  5.10+ R

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV Consensus:  5.10+ [details] FA:  fowler/lowe Season:  summer Submitted By:  Cor on Sep 10, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

feathercrest

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Description 

this route up the north face is black elk's brother. just as hard (i thought) and the feather crest pitch at the top...wow!

Location 

on the north face seen from your cirque camp.
hike up the scree to the base. follow slab/ramp to the only real left facing dihedral system on the north face. follow that up to it's top, then veer right and up to another shorter left facing dihedral. from there wander up to the top and climb the runout feather crest pitch (which is nice and narrow, but not hard.) a few traversing pitchs across the top bring you to the backside walkoff down towards sundance pinicale. cut through the notch towards the trail and arrowhead lake, and back around into the cirque.

Protection 

it says in a book to follow the leftfacing dihedral system, and standard rack. the dihedral system is a fat crack/squeeze/chimney. take up to a #6 camalot, or run it out like we did. . .

Photos of feather buttress Slideshow

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feathercrest	looking at pitchs 2-4 aprox.	The route ascends the long curving corner system u...
The infamous Feather Crest. Dubbed "The wildest 5....	Noah leading the pitch below the crest	Topping out the crest
Sunset on the crest	Summit of Warbonnet sans clothing