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Warbonnet Peak
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Elk T 
Brown Cow T 
Drop of a hat... T 
feather buttress T 
Northeast Face, Left T 
our route T 
Un-named T 
Weather Or Not... T 
Unsorted Routes:

feather buttress 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: fowler/lowe
Season: summer
Page Views: 6,292
Submitted By: Cor on Sep 10, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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feathercrest

Description 

this route up the north face is black elk's brother. just as hard (i thought) and the feather crest pitch at the top...wow!


Location 

on the north face seen from your cirque camp.
hike up the scree to the base. follow slab/ramp to the only real left facing dihedral system on the north face. follow that up to it's top, then veer right and up to another shorter left facing dihedral. from there wander up to the top and climb the runout feather crest pitch (which is nice and narrow, but not hard.) a few traversing pitchs across the top bring you to the backside walkoff down towards sundance pinicale. cut through the notch towards the trail and arrowhead lake, and back around into the cirque.

Protection 

it says in a book to follow the leftfacing dihedral system, and standard rack. the dihedral system is a fat crack/squeeze/chimney. take up to a #6 camalot, or run it out like we did. . .


Photos of feather buttress Slideshow Add Photo
feathercrest
feathercrest
Sunset on the crest
Sunset on the crest
Summit of Warbonnet sans clothing
Summit of Warbonnet sans clothing
The infamous Feather Crest. Dubbed "The wilde...
The infamous Feather Crest. Dubbed "The wilde...
Topping out the crest
Topping out the crest
The route ascends the long curving corner system u...
The route ascends the long curving corner system u...
looking at pitchs 2-4 aprox.
looking at pitchs 2-4 aprox.
Noah leading the pitch below the crest
Noah leading the pitch below the crest

Comments on feather buttress Add Comment
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By Frost
Aug 3, 2015

As of 8.01.15, the runout chimney pitch had a fixed rope with 'sport' clipping knots in it, making it quite safe (unfortunately changes the nature of the pitch). If you brought a #5 and #6 camalot, it would be completely protectable without the line being there. If you just bring a #4, you're going about 40-50' before getting that piece in and the climbing to get to that placement is probably about 5.8. The feather crest is about 5.7, so it too feels plenty safe, although, runout. Incredible route... every pitch (except P1, which is a kitty litter choss bucket)).
By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
4 days ago

"Some of these leads involve difficult chimneys" - Joe Kelsey

Amen.
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