Feast of Fools 

Josh's description of P1 is a little misleading. It sounds like you hand traverse right at the first roof and around the corner. Actually. You hand traverse right a few moves (too far right is cheating), pull the roof then angle left on steep and poorly protected rock to small ceiling leading into an inside corner. Getting into that corner is the real crux, and is very awkward. Above this is another bulge at which you traverse straight right to the belay. The photo of Rich Goldstone above the first roof makes this all clear.

Josh also doesn't mention the third, easier pitch from the GT ledge to the top.

Sorry Ivan, after doing a zillion Gunks routes in the course of a year, my memory is hazy. Your photos bring it back though, and I edited the description accordingly.

This is a great tough lead and placing gear is very pumpy. I wouldn't leave my #4 Camalot on the ground...? Watch out for the pins at the crux; they're junk. One is definitely better then the other, but still junk.

P2 doesn't see much traffic, but is absolutely clean, nice and technical. The short corner tests different skills than the first pitch and is well worth of climbing.
The beginning of the corner is protected nicely by nuts, then it is a small runout until the 9ish moves are over. The lower angle face below the corner is where you land if you fall. Not a bad fall, but be ready not to sprain your ankles needlessly (still, it IS a PG).

I used two small cams - green and yellow alien, then also a .4 BD below the first roof. I got a solid #3 BD below the crap pins...a #4 would certainly work and offer more possible placements, but one #3 seemed sufficient for this route.

A 0.5 flexible Friend backs up the pins. It slots in vertically about three inches above and to the left of the upper of the two pins.

I found the pitch to be well protected bottom to top.

Do the 2nd pitch! I do not know why guidebook does not recommend it. Great stemming 5.10a second pitch.

I seconded both pitches. P1 is sustained and pumpy, but, the holds are great and even this shorty had little difficulty pulling the roofs. P2 is more technical but equally entertaining. Although short, it is a good pitch.

This route is so awesome! It's pretty wild how isolated you feel once you're under the first massive roof. Once you commit to it and get on top, the real crux is juggy and just a little awkward. Also, I'd suggest against placing gear in the flake on the first roof, seeing how it's not actually attached to the cliff.

This route felt hard and sketchy to me - the gear is wierd around the roof and I didn't trust most of it until I pulled above. The pins are a bit sketch too. I took a couple nasty falls - one just at the roof after getting a big 3.5 cam placed in the flake (yes it does hold) and once again up high near the pins. Felt harder than "Try Again" - 10c if you ask me

Specifically, a .4 grey camalot with the lobes oriented properly protects in a vertical crack above and right of the twin pins at the crux.

I thought this was one of the better protected 5.10's at the gunks I have done. I did put a screamer on one of the pins, but even if those blew the #3 camalot just below would catch you after a big but clean fall.

I fell on the pins. They held! :)