Feast of Fools
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Feast of Fools begins near the same corner and roof system of Nurse's Aid and Hans' Puss.
P1: Begin just right of the start of Hans' Puss (the rightmost, steepest corner). Climb this ever-steepening corner system until you reach the first of several roofs. Pull this roof and step left to a rest. Pull the second roof into an overhung corner protected by a pair of fixed pins. Creative stemming and reaches will get you to easier terrain (joining with Hans' Puss here) which is followed around the corner of the buttress to the right and belay at two bolts. A great pitch. 5.10b, 75'.
P2: The crux section (a few moves of 9++) is cool. Head up off the belay to the small roof band above. Breach the roof with fingerlocks into a narrow, left-facing corner. Belay at an oak tree on the GT ledge. 5.10a, 70'.
Rich Goldstone starting the 8- or 9-ish moves up t...
Rich Goldstone reaching the thumpy pancake flake. ...
Rich Goldstone resting after getting the gear at t...
Finishing the crux. Note the screamer on the pin.
Jeff Arliss nearing the first roof.
Jeff reaching for the lip of the first roof, which...
Mike From The Gym (probably not his correct name.....
Mike at the crux. The pins are behind his waist.
Mike nearing the end of the crux, a few feet above...
Jeff on the last move of P1.
KP climbing Feast of Fools as seen from the base o...
Gail below the first roof on FoF.
Tedi Setton on Feast of Fools P1
|Comments on Feast of Fools
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Feb 23, 2006
Josh's description of P1 is a little misleading. It sounds like you hand traverse right at the first roof and around the corner. Actually. You hand traverse right a few moves (too far right is cheating), pull the roof then angle left on steep and poorly protected rock to small ceiling leading into an inside corner. Getting into that corner is the real crux, and is very awkward. Above this is another bulge at which you traverse straight right to the belay. The photo of Rich Goldstone above the first roof makes this all clear.
Josh also doesn't mention the third, easier pitch from the GT ledge to the top.
|By Josh Janes|
Feb 24, 2006
Sorry Ivan, after doing a zillion Gunks routes in the course of a year, my memory is hazy. Your photos bring it back though, and I edited the description accordingly.
|By Mike fenice|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 17, 2006
This is a great tough lead and placing gear is very pumpy. I wouldn't leave my #4 Camalot on the ground...? Watch out for the pins at the crux; they're junk. One is definitely better then the other, but still junk.
Nov 5, 2007
P2 doesn't see much traffic, but is absolutely clean, nice and technical. The short corner tests different skills than the first pitch and is well worth of climbing.
The beginning of the corner is protected nicely by nuts, then it is a small runout until the 9ish moves are over. The lower angle face below the corner is where you land if you fall. Not a bad fall, but be ready not to sprain your ankles needlessly (still, it IS a PG).
|By Paul Hunnicutt|
From: Boulder, CO
May 1, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
I used two small cams - green and yellow alien, then also a .4 BD below the first roof. I got a solid #3 BD below the crap pins...a #4 would certainly work and offer more possible placements, but one #3 seemed sufficient for this route.
|By Rui Ferreira|
From: St Ismier (Grenoble), France
Nov 18, 2008
A 0.5 flexible Friend backs up the pins. It slots in vertically about three inches above and to the left of the upper of the two pins.
I found the pitch to be well protected bottom to top.
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Do the 2nd pitch! I do not know why guidebook does not recommend it. Great stemming 5.10a second pitch.
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 16, 2009
I seconded both pitches. P1 is sustained and pumpy, but, the holds are great and even this shorty had little difficulty pulling the roofs. P2 is more technical but equally entertaining. Although short, it is a good pitch.
|By Jaysen Henderson|
Jul 5, 2011
This route is so awesome! It's pretty wild how isolated you feel once you're under the first massive roof. Once you commit to it and get on top, the real crux is juggy and just a little awkward. Also, I'd suggest against placing gear in the flake on the first roof, seeing how it's not actually attached to the cliff.
|By Colin R|
From: Ottawa, ON
Mar 18, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13
This route felt hard and sketchy to me - the gear is wierd around the roof and I didn't trust most of it until I pulled above. The pins are a bit sketch too. I took a couple nasty falls - one just at the roof after getting a big 3.5 cam placed in the flake (yes it does hold) and once again up high near the pins. Felt harder than "Try Again" - 10c if you ask me
From: SL UT
Mar 26, 2012
Specifically, a .4 grey camalot with the lobes oriented properly protects in a vertical crack above and right of the twin pins at the crux.
Apr 8, 2013
I thought this was one of the better protected 5.10's at the gunks I have done. I did put a screamer on one of the pins, but even if those blew the #3 camalot just below would catch you after a big but clean fall.
May 1, 2013
I fell on the pins. They held! :)
From: Gunks, NY
Nov 3, 2013
I climb the first big roof to the left then angle right to the pins to pull the crux. Has anyone done it that way?