Feast and Famine
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This climb has two cruxes; pulling the first overhang/ roof and then pulling the second roof.
Awesome climbing on fairly steep rock. Either do the boulder problem start, or by-pass on the right; scramble up the slab to the first overhang/ roof for the first bolt.
The fourth climb on your left as you enter the corridor proper (as I recall- I will look this up)- look for a bulgy overhang ~ one meter off the deck, followed by a slab run to a second overhang/ roof. A second small roof (~60 feet) can be seen from the deck.
7 bolts to a two shut rap.
Bouldery start, multiple roofs, crack underclings,...
|Comments on Feast and Famine
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 19, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
FA's - Ken Mills, Jimmy Steagall & Eric Hanson '92
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 24, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
More difficult than 10c/d. 1st roof was challanging but well protected. 2nd roof was more challanging and less protected.
Apr 15, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
We (my partner and I) thought the route as way more difficult then the guide book states- if one straddles the bolts at the upper crux. Also we thought the protection could have been better placed on the upper crux as well. By chance 2 years after our ascent we overheard a party of two just finishing the route who were mumbling that they thought the route as middle 11 if Public Hanging was 11c and Armed and Dangerous was 11b.