Feast and Famine 5.10d
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| Type: | Sport, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Ken Mills, Jimmy Steagall & Eric Hanson '92' |
| Season: | Late Winter-Spring to Autumn |
| Submitted By: | David Arthur Sampson on Aug 18, 2007 |
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Always with the buttshots. We need a full time ph...
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Description This climb has two cruxes; pulling the first overhang/ roof and then pulling the second roof. Awesome climbing on fairly steep rock. Either do the boulder problem start, or by-pass on the right; scramble up the slab to the first overhang/ roof for the first bolt.
Location The fourth climb on your left as you enter the corridor proper (as I recall- I will look this up)- look for a bulgy overhang ~ one meter off the deck, followed by a slab run to a second overhang/ roof. A second small roof (~60 feet) can be seen from the deck.
Protection 7 bolts to a two shut rap.
Bouldery start, multiple roofs, crack underclings,...
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| Comments on Feast and Famine |
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By susan peplow From: Joshua Tree Apr 19, 2008 rating: 5.10c
| FA's - Ken Mills, Jimmy Steagall & Eric Hanson '92 |
By JimmyK From: Flagstaff, AZ Jan 24, 2009 rating: 5.11a
| More difficult than 10c/d. 1st roof was challanging but well protected. 2nd roof was more challanging and less protected. |
By brucy Apr 15, 2010 rating: 5.11b
| We (my partner and I) thought the route as way more difficult then the guide book states- if one straddles the bolts at the upper crux. Also we thought the protection could have been better placed on the upper crux as well. By chance 2 years after our ascent we overheard a party of two just finishing the route who were mumbling that they thought the route as middle 11 if Public Hanging was 11c and Armed and Dangerous was 11b. |
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