Feast and Famine
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Always with the buttshots. We need a full time ph...
This climb has two cruxes; pulling the first overhang/ roof and then pulling the second roof.
Awesome climbing on fairly steep rock. Either do the boulder problem start, or by-pass on the right; scramble up the slab to the first overhang/ roof for the first bolt.
The fourth climb on your left as you enter the corridor proper (as I recall- I will look this up)- look for a bulgy overhang ~ one meter off the deck, followed by a slab run to a second overhang/ roof. A second small roof (~60 feet) can be seen from the deck.
7 bolts to a two shut rap.
Bouldery start, multiple roofs, crack underclings,...
|Comments on Feast and Famine
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 19, 2008
FA's - Ken Mills, Jimmy Steagall & Eric Hanson '92
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 24, 2009
More difficult than 10c/d. 1st roof was challanging but well protected. 2nd roof was more challanging and less protected.
Apr 15, 2010
We (my partner and I) thought the route as way more difficult then the guide book states- if one straddles the bolts at the upper crux. Also we thought the protection could have been better placed on the upper crux as well. By chance 2 years after our ascent we overheard a party of two just finishing the route who were mumbling that they thought the route as middle 11 if Public Hanging was 11c and Armed and Dangerous was 11b.