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Fearless First 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,884
Submitted By: Steve Marr on May 2, 2005

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Description 

Fearless First is located about five feet to the right of Beginner's Luck and is the most obvious bolted line as you walk around the Napa Valley buttress (there are a couple additional unidentified bolts / lines to the left of Beginner's).

The guide states that Beginner's and Fearless share a common start. It is also possible to climb directly up to the first bolt, and avoid the Beginner's Luck crack without adding any real difficulty. Climb past four bolts and a single fixed pin above the fourth bolt. Above the pin, angle left to the anchors shared with Beginner's. A couple small/medium sized stoppers can protect the small run out above the piton. Good route.

Protection 

Four bolts, one fixed pin. Medium-sized stoppers useful on the upper part of the route.


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By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 23, 2007

This face route seems contrived because it is hard to stay out of the crack and the bolts are run out if you stay on the face. The traverse at the start may be dangerous for the second because when the first piece is taken out there is ground fall potential for the second (with rope stretch) or an ugly swing.
By Stephen Carlos Rydalch
From: Golden, CO
Aug 5, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It's a neat route to supplement Beginner's Luck if you're already climbing there. Clipping the last bolt is a bit runout by Front Range standards but perfectly reasonable for Unaweep. It's a safe fall anyway. A #0.5 Camalot can be used in the left crack to protect between bolts if desired.

Thanks for putting up this route. Anyone know about the 2 bolt face to finger crack climb just to the right of Fearless First?
By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Mar 3, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

If you actually stay out of the cracks and follow the bolt line, this feels a lot more like 10- to me than a 5.8. It's thin and tenuous in several sections and a bit polished too. Fun route, but I think it's a sandbag at 5.8.