Fear-Virgin crossover  5.9+

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Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150 feet Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Larry S on Apr 6, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

The topo says to start at Fear-Refactored (second bolt line off the ground) or Smear Factor (Third Bolt line off the ground). Topo says 5.9+, but we felt the start off of Smear Factor made it 5.10+, can't comment about the other start.

The main part of the climb moves up a small right facing corner that diagonals right past 6 or so bolts.

If starting from Fear, move up and left into the brushy alcove, traverse left thru it to join up the corner. I haven't tried this start so i can't comment on the difficulty.

If starting from Smear, head straight up directly next to and partly on the seeping moss covered face, make some balancy moves at the second bolt (crux) clipping 3-4 bolts, then move right to join the inside corner. Runners, skipping, or back-cleaning are recommended for the 4th and 5th bolt.

Second pitch is much easier, maybe 5.6? It continues up to the anchor for the second pitch of Virgin Suicides. There is alot of loose and dirty rock on this pitch, I had a few holds rip-out, take care not to kill anyone below on Virgin Suicides.

Protection 

Many bolts, you'll need at least a dozen draws and runners.