Fear of the Dark  5.10c

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Type:  Sport, 60 feet Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  Daniel Trugman, Jason Halladay, Allison Fritz: August 2009 Submitted By:  Daniel Trugman on Aug 9, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Have you run your fingers down the wall?
And have ...

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Description 

This shy route flirts with the difficulties of the steep dark streak left of "Nguvu" but avoids them with a short traverse.

Head up three bolts shared with "Nguvu" on occasionally flakey rock (10a?, easier if you know where to grab). Cut left with an easy traverse to a no-hands stance below the fourth bolt. Clip the fourth bolt and climb steep but juggy terrain below a small roof. Pull the roof (crux) with the help of some killer hidden pockets. Clip one more bolt if you like and make a couple easy moves to the anchors.

Originally rated 5.10b, the consensus seems to be that it's a notch harder. A fun route, whatever the rating, and it makes for a good warmup for the harder stuff in the Amphitheater.

Location 

Far left arete in the Ampitheater, shares start with Nguvu

Protection 

7 bolts to chains with fixed carabiners

Photos of Fear of the Dark Slideshow

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Lee is just below the crux roof move on the route....