|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Orphaned on Jun 23, 2005|
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|Comments on Fear of Sunlight||Add Comment|
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From: Boulder, CO
May 14, 2009
We had no idea what we were getting on when we started this pitch yesterday. It looked easier than the bolted line to the right.
Get a good belay to start this pitch because you could hit the start ledge if you blow it above the first bolt. After that I thought the route was protected fine. Cool climbing past a few bolts will get you to a 12" wide positive ledge to inspect the crux before you commit.
Although the description says you will hit the higher ledge if you blow the crux my partner fell without incident. That said, if you were balancing really close to the wall and came off, you could possible tweak an ankle. Fun route worth doing!
By Aaron Martinuzzi
Jun 22, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gotta disagree about the bolting job on this line - definite possibility for unpleasant falls at a few spots along the route, which is a shame, because it's better than the second pitch of Le Stat. also, i'm going to argue that the crux of this climb was more difficult than either P1 or P2 of Le Stat; it involves a tough undercling sequence with shit feet and not-much-better hands. also very beta-intensive.
If you're solid at the grade, however, hit this line up, because it's better than P2 of Le Stat for sure.