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Vampire Rock
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Fear of Sunlight 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 530
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jun 23, 2005
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Description 

From the belay ledge above the first pitch of Le Stat, there are two bolted lines on the face above. The right line is the excellent 2nd pitch of Le Stat. The left line is Fear of Sunlight.

Begin with tricky moves along the rounded arete. A ledge system at mid-height provides a rest before tackling the crux finish.

The upper section seems squeezed and contrived, as one can easily switch back and forth from easier climbing on Le Stat in several places. Not only that, but a poor bolting job at the crux forces one to face a potentially dangerous ledge fall. Since most people will likely climb Le Stat first, before leading, it is highly recommended that one place a 24" draw on the 2nd to last bolt when lowering off the shared anchor.

Climbing the lower half of this route into the upper part of Le Stat makes an excellent 11a.


Protection 

8 or 9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor shared with Le Stat.



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By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
May 14, 2009

We had no idea what we were getting on when we started this pitch yesterday. It looked easier than the bolted line to the right.

Get a good belay to start this pitch because you could hit the start ledge if you blow it above the first bolt. After that I thought the route was protected fine. Cool climbing past a few bolts will get you to a 12" wide positive ledge to inspect the crux before you commit.

Although the description says you will hit the higher ledge if you blow the crux my partner fell without incident. That said, if you were balancing really close to the wall and came off, you could possible tweak an ankle. Fun route worth doing!

By Aaron Martinuzzi
Jun 22, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Gotta disagree about the bolting job on this line - definite possibility for unpleasant falls at a few spots along the route, which is a shame, because it's better than the second pitch of Le Stat. also, i'm going to argue that the crux of this climb was more difficult than either P1 or P2 of Le Stat; it involves a tough undercling sequence with shit feet and not-much-better hands. also very beta-intensive.

If you're solid at the grade, however, hit this line up, because it's better than P2 of Le Stat for sure.