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Fear of Flying 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 1985 Robert McGown, Guigi Regis
Season: When Open
Page Views: 117
Submitted By: Colin Parker on Aug 21, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Topher following pitch one.

Beacon Rock is open from July 15, 2016 through February 1st, 2017. See note for more details. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb starts in a corner about fifteen feet below and to climber's left of the snag ledge anchors. The route can be easily identified by the three fixed pins lodged in the seam at the back of the corner. The first pitch, which is 5.10a, climbs this corner using mostly stemming moves and some face holds on the right-hand arete. When possible climb over the left-hand arete and finish up another crack to the ledge with the Jill's Thrill anchor. You may then optionally continue up a second pitch consisting of a 5.10b thin crack before again joining up with Jill's Thrill higher up.

Protection 

Standard Rack to 1.5", Three draws for fixed pins


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By Topher Dabrowski
Oct 25, 2015

The second pitch for this route is short and from the looks of the vegetation and lichen, rarely climbed. The pins are sketchy and backing them up with smaller cams basically eats up the holds. Not in character with the first pitch.

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