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Holds Up Bluff North
Select Route:
Beer and Smear T,TR 
Block Dance T 
Cripple Crack T 
Fantasy Land T,S,TR 
Fear and Smear T,TR 
Seaweed Patch T,S,TR 

Fear and Smear 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 786
Submitted By: Kurt Johnson on Apr 6, 2008

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A short but fun route that can be lead on gear (sketchy) but is usually done on toprope after rapping off the nearby route Cripple Crack.

There's a discontinuous thin crack but it's mainly a face climb to a horizontal crack where you hand-traverse left, pull through a small "roof", then a few more crimpers to the 2 bolt anchor.


On the right-hand portion of Hold Up Bluffs North, around the corner on the small face that faces south.


Small gear or toprope

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By gregybn
Apr 8, 2008

Yeah... short & fun!
But, I seem to remember a couple bomber nut placements in the thin vertical crack?
BTW... the gully just to the right - before Cripple Crack - is about a 5.0 scramble (OK, maybe 4th class?) up to the anchors... to set top-ropes for any climbs on the first level of H.U.B. North.

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