Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Holds Up Bluff North
Select Route:
Beer and Smear 
Block Dance 
Cripple Crack 
Fantasy Land 
Fear and Smear 
Seaweed Patch 

Fear and Smear 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 526
Submitted By: Kurt Johnson on Apr 6, 2008
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

A short but fun route that can be lead on gear (sketchy) but is usually done on toprope after rapping off the nearby route Cripple Crack.

There's a discontinuous thin crack but it's mainly a face climb to a horizontal crack where you hand-traverse left, pull through a small "roof", then a few more crimpers to the 2 bolt anchor.


Location 

On the right-hand portion of Hold Up Bluffs North, around the corner on the small face that faces south.


Protection 

Small gear or toprope



Comments on Fear and Smear Add Comment
Show which comments
By gregybn
Apr 8, 2008

Yeah... short & fun!
But, I seem to remember a couple bomber nut placements in the thin vertical crack?
BTW... the gully just to the right - before Cripple Crack - is about a 5.0 scramble (OK, maybe 4th class?) up to the anchors... to set top-ropes for any climbs on the first level of H.U.B. North.