Fear and Loathing
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This is a somewhat contrived route that squeezes between Lower Fall Wall and 5.11 Crack
. It begins by climbing 5.11 Crack
to the first bolt and then traverses left to another bolt (crux). Head up to a third bolt, a short headwall and right-facing dihedral. Follow this dihedral to the Fall Wall belay ledge. Rappel.
Even though I've listed this at 5.9+, be aware that this is a Vedauwoo "old school" rating; a more modern rating would probably be 5.10a.
Use the same start as 5.11 Crack
, atop the clamshell boulder.
Quick draws and a light rack with smaller pieces.