Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley
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Fear and Loathing is yet another classic test piece of the Web.
The finger journey this route presents to the climber is as much a test of finger strength as it is a trial of trust. You begin immediately to the let of Mr. Rogers' on an unlikely broken wall that is protected by a couple small pieces. Boulder the first 8 feet of the route to gain a rest out right: Milk this!
Step back left and onto the face. Step up and into the otherworldly finger crack. Crank up this for about 20 to 25 feet of sustained, and cruxy, climbing trying not to think about how damn secure these jams REALLY are (there are some great, but small, feet peppered intermittently along the left wall). Slap your hands onto a large jug and rest again before finishing up the steep upper headwall on juggy 5.10 climbing.
The route ends on a spacious ledge at a shared bolt anchor with Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood.
Just to the left of Mr. Rogers' is the unmistakable crack.
Carry a good selection of small gear (doubles are recommended) and a few medium pieces up to a red Camalot size.
|Photos of Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley Slideshow
The bouldery start of the route.
Myself getting into the finger crack. Photo By Ada...
Alexa exiting the finger crack.
|Comments on Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 1, 2010
So good! The start felt exciting to protect, since you're kinda doing a boulder problem in very exposed terrain. After going up and down a few times, I found an unlikely, but bomber .75 camalot placement up and left about 10' up, right before you do the lower crux. A flared crack has a small parallel section in it. This helped my head game since I only had an RP down low to the ground.
|By E thatcher|
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Oct 14, 2010
Incredible route indeed. I actually found this to be a test more of the forearm pump then finger strength. The crimps down low are really solid and positive, then up top is just holding it together on HUGE holds. Awesome.
|By Chris Duca|
From: Havertown, PA
Jul 25, 2011
Climbed this yesterday a couple of times, and despite having the initial face and crux finger crack wired, it still felt difficult. Feet felt slick in places, too!
From: Golden, CO
Dec 11, 2011
Classic Spider's Web pump. There is a crux at the left leaning finger crack, but the crux isn't where you fall; the crux is what pumps you out so that you fall later on the 5.10a jugs at the top.
From: San Diego, CA
5 days ago
Fully agreed that this thing is all about fighting the pump higher up! The crimps down low are strong, and have some fiddly gear, but you can fully recover before hitting the finger crack. Assuming your jam skills are dialed you can pull through it all, but it is definitely a forearm battle! If you're at the web, this thing is a must-do.