Fear and Loathing, III 5.12-
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Bill Boyle and Boone Speed, 1988 |
| Submitted By: | Aimee Rose on Mar 23, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Moving into the crux moves- oh so pumped!
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Description Overhanging jugs for 6 bolts to a powerful crimpy roof pull to a balancy finish. A variation to the right exists after the 6th bolt, but it doesn't look as nice as going straight up.
Location 7th from the left.
Protection 8 bolts to chains.
The crimpy (endurance) crux at the top of F&L.
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Clipping before the crux sequence.
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Fear and Loathing
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Taking a Whipper on Fear and Loathing
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The White Rastafarian on Fear and Loathing, photo:...
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Fear and Loathing
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Nick moving up Fear and Loathing
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J. Steck, finding the hard way to do the crux.
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Shooting for the jug after the crux clip
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looking for a rest of F&L
Photo by: Bernard Lam
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Greg taking a well needed break
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Greg at the start
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| Comments on Fear and Loathing, III |
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By 426
Mar 19, 2007
| Sick fun but watch the belay down low...great for apes. |
By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Apr 17, 2007
rating: 5.12a
| Climbed at WOC last weekend. Would whoever is putting the retarded tick arrows on F&L please move... or at least tick holds that you actually need to use on the route!?! IDIOTS! |
By Wolfgang Braun
From: Beavercreek, Oregon
Oct 13, 2008
rating: 5.12-
| I love this route. Fun, steep, and big holds. There are some unreasonable tick marks on this route. |
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Jan 5, 2009
rating: 5.12-
| I went right at the 6th bolt and had to do a pretty hard undercling move that felt like the crux. I did see two ticked holds going straight up though. |
By hEatchel
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 22, 2009
rating: 5.12a
| AMAZING climbing! def 12a in my book |
By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
Mar 26, 2009
| ticking is not to be tolerated on anything below 13. Especially on a route as chalked and juggy as this precious gem. |
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 30, 2011
rating: 5.12a
| On 1/29/11 the LVCLC with support from the ASCA replaced the anchors on this route with 1/2 x 5" SS 5-piece bolts and equipped them with mussy hooks.
Two sets of old anchors were chopped and patched. |
By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Jan 23, 2013
rating: 5.12-
| Using the slanted rock behind the route. You can pre-hang draws all the way to the 6th or 7th bolt with a cheater stick. Oh yeah, will yall calm down about the damn tick marks! Cry babies.
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By Paul K.
From: West Fargo, ND
Mar 20, 2013
| I really liked this route, but I wasn't ready for the overhang. I made it through the crux, but between bad beta and my lack of overhang climbing I was too tired to finish. Especially when you finally make it throug the crux, then fall and have to redo it again. As far as ticks go, don't use them if you don't like them. Figure it out for yourself. I'm almost positive I did it different then most. There is a point where you can do a big move/dyno, but I opted for a more static way, which I believe is where the ticks are at. |
By skinny legs and all
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Apr 8, 2013
| John Bachar soloed this in the early 90's, probably many times. This was at least the third route in Vegas to be named "Fear and Loathing". |
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