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American Sportsman S 
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Fear and Loathing, III 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bill Boyle and Boone Speed, 1988
Page Views: 11,153
Submitted By: Aimee Rose on Mar 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (122)
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Nick moving up Fear and Loathing

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Overhanging jugs for 6 bolts to a powerful crimpy roof pull to a balancy finish. A variation to the right exists after the 6th bolt, but it doesn't look as nice as going straight up.

Location 

7th from the left.

Protection 

8 bolts to chains.


Photos of Fear and Loathing, III Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: J. Steck, finding the hard way to do the crux.
J. Steck, finding the hard way to do the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fear and Loathing
Fear and Loathing
Rock Climbing Photo: Shooting for the jug after the crux clip
Shooting for the jug after the crux clip
Rock Climbing Photo: Fear and Loathing
Fear and Loathing
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving into the crux moves- oh so pumped!
BETA PHOTO: Moving into the crux moves- oh so pumped!
Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping before the crux sequence.
Clipping before the crux sequence.
Rock Climbing Photo: The crimpy (endurance) crux at the top of F&L.
The crimpy (endurance) crux at the top of F&L.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fear...
Fear...
Rock Climbing Photo: Greg at the start
Greg at the start
Rock Climbing Photo: The White Rastafarian on Fear and Loathing, photo:...
The White Rastafarian on Fear and Loathing, photo:...
Rock Climbing Photo: Thomas Seymore after just clearing the crux.
Thomas Seymore after just clearing the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Greg taking a well needed break
Greg taking a well needed break
Rock Climbing Photo: Pumper
Pumper
Rock Climbing Photo: Taking a Whipper on Fear and Loathing
Taking a Whipper on Fear and Loathing
Rock Climbing Photo: looking for a rest of F&L  Photo by: Bernard Lam
looking for a rest of F&L Photo by: Bernard Lam
Rock Climbing Photo: Holly Yeary climbs like a money. No problems here.
Holly Yeary climbs like a money. No problems here.

Comments on Fear and Loathing, III Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 31, 2015
By 426
Mar 19, 2007

Sick fun but watch the belay down low...great for apes.
By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Apr 17, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Climbed at WOC last weekend. Would whoever is putting the retarded tick arrows on F&L please move... or at least tick holds that you actually need to use on the route!?! IDIOTS!
By Wolfgang Braun
From: Beavercreek, Oregon
Oct 13, 2008
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I love this route. Fun, steep, and big holds. There are some unreasonable tick marks on this route.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Jan 5, 2009
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I went right at the 6th bolt and had to do a pretty hard undercling move that felt like the crux. I did see two ticked holds going straight up though.
By hEatchel
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 22, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

AMAZING climbing! def 12a in my book
By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
Mar 26, 2009

ticking is not to be tolerated on anything below 13. Especially on a route as chalked and juggy as this precious gem.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 30, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

On 1/29/11 the LVCLC with support from the ASCA replaced the anchors on this route with 1/2 x 5" SS 5-piece bolts and equipped them with mussy hooks.

Two sets of old anchors were chopped and patched.
By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Jan 23, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Using the slanted rock behind the route. You can pre-hang draws all the way to the 6th or 7th bolt with a cheater stick. Oh yeah, will yall calm down about the damn tick marks! Cry babies.
By Paul K.
From: West Fargo, ND
Mar 20, 2013

I really liked this route, but I wasn't ready for the overhang. I made it through the crux, but between bad beta and my lack of overhang climbing I was too tired to finish. Especially when you finally make it throug the crux, then fall and have to redo it again. As far as ticks go, don't use them if you don't like them. Figure it out for yourself. I'm almost positive I did it different then most. There is a point where you can do a big move/dyno, but I opted for a more static way, which I believe is where the ticks are at.
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Apr 8, 2013

John Bachar soloed this in the early 90's, probably many times. This was at least the third route in Vegas to be named "Fear and Loathing".
By CHopwood
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 25, 2015

A point of contention; I've watched several people climb this and am still not sure where the route starts? I've seen it tried from the low sidepulls, the huecos, and even the holds above the first bolt. You can reach all of them by standing on the rocks opposite the wall. I took the middle ground and started from the huecos below the first bolt and it was still not a trivial start. If you start from the crimpy sidepulls below this, with no feet, it makes the start the crux move of the route and I think likely bumps the grade to 12b? From the huecos, I think it's still comfortably 12a.
By ludia kochan
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 31, 2015

Many people start from standing on the opposite side of the wall but the first 10 feet of the climb from the very bottom definitely adds to the the climb, it's so good. Start from the lowest crimpy sidepulls and work your feet up, it's all there. Not sure it makes it a 12b but it definitely keeps it sustained the entire way up (unlike it's 12b neighbor)

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