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 ADVANCED
Decadent Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abortions on Parade T 
Adolescent Homosexual T 
Bestiality T 
Big Easy, The T 
Carol's Crack T 
Dimples and Tits S 
Divine Decadence T 
Dykes on Harleys T 
FDC T 
Flesh for Fantasy T,S 
Impotence T,S 
Life Without Sex S 
McKenzie's Crack T 
Nipples and Clits S 
Pluton Playground T 
Preteen Sex T 
Sexual Dysfunction S 
Testosterone Test T 
Too Much Testosterone T 
Twilight T 

FDC 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jay Goodwin - Early 1980's
Page Views: 492
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Aug 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Maura Hahnenberger on FDC.

Description 

This is a nice mixed bolt and gear route. There are a few places where you have to climb a bit above your gear, but it is all pretty reasonable. Nice rock with some good steep climbing near the end.

Location 

Just right of Adolescent Homosexual.

Protection 

Bring a set of nuts and cams.


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By Alec
Aug 6, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

I'd have to append a seriousness rating to this one as there are a few places on the slab where you'd almost certainly deck on a fall. The gear is spaced out and tiny in often flaring cracks. However the climbing isn't too difficult here and the gear is plenty adequate for both cruxes.

Bring some microcams and go for it.