Favorite New England Climbs?

Well the question says it all, whats your favorite new england climbs.
Dont post anything to hard, Im climbing 5.10-5.13 trad/sport.

I really hope this doesn't turn into a spray fest with mp-ers saying that their favorite climb is the xyz route of abc x 2 grade.

I'll go with:

Recompen-beast: a direct and more prominent line connecting more obvious natural features than The Prow.

Last Unicorn and its somewhat overlooked neighbor Lost Souls: fantastic face climbs with outrageous exposure because they start high up a hillside.

Chitlin's Corner: A Mount Desert Isle classic features two pitches up a very prominent corner, don't forget the commanding National Park worthy views from the belay stations.

Whitney-Gilman Ridge: It's hard to find this much fun be this easy...unless it's 1938.

Massachusetts and Connecticut - sorry. There's some fun excursions, but nothing in the "best of" category.

Rhode Island - keep clinging to the eastern seaboard. I still don't get why that state gets 2 representatives in the Senate.

Thanks!

Whitney G is great, the 5.8 and 5.9 variation sections are also nice. It's a good night climb as well.

Moby Grape is stellar as well; the climbing is more difficult than W-G, the features are awesome, and it's a long route with mostly stellar climbing. Be sure to take Reppy's Crack for the 1st pitch, which is the standard start now.

Trad multipitch: Moby Grape 5.8 on Cannon
Single pitch Trad: Connecticut Crack 5.11- at Acadia
Sport: Venus on a halfshell 5.12c in Rumney

lucander wrote: Massachusetts and Connecticut - sorry. There's some fun excursions, but nothing in the "best of" category.

IDK about this with regards to CT. We're the only place in New England with the amazing bullet Trap Rock.

Unconquerable, Cat Crack, Dol Guldur, Sublime, just to name a few harder classics in the state, are nothing like anywhere else in New England so I would say your're wrong. CT has the Best Traprock climbin in New England.

There's also some amazing lines at Chatfield Hollow like Shape Shifter (12 sport) and Forearm Frenzy (11 trad) that are, IME, unique to New England.

I am a bit biased being the CT admin...

RI has some very good bouldering.. really.

The best long-ish route in NH is Women In Love at Cathedral- 12a, 5 pitches. For a one pitch, it's hard to beat Budapest 11+ same cliff.

Chitlin's Corner (even just P1) in Acadia
Bartleby in Acadia
Recollections of Pacifica in Acadia

Book of Solemnity at Cathedral
Bird's Nest at Cathedral
Recompense at Cathedral
Toe Crack at Cathedral
Pine Tree Eliminate at Cathedral
They Died Laughing at Cathedral

WG on Cannon

Underdog at Rumney
Jaws II at Rumney
Armed and Dangerous at Rumney
Both Jolt and Dolt at Rumney
Millenium Falcon at Rumney

GMBurns wrote:Jaws II at Rumney

JAWS II???? REALLY? you're going to put that down on a list of best climbs under 5.13 in New England? Come'on that list stinks for Rumney all over... maybe except for the Falcon...

Rumney list should include: Predator, Techosurfing, Social Outcast, Flyin' Hawaiian, Rip Tide, Flesh for LuLu, Thin Man, Giant Man, Restless Native, Man Overboard, Black Mamba, Stone Monkey.

Vertigo's (Cannon- 5.9 A0) got my vote.

Oosik @ Farley is a great 12A.

Ginseng (5.12c) or Shagg It (5.12d) at Shagg Crag in Maine

Predator (5.13b), Giant Man (5.12b/c), Technosurfing (5.12b) at Rumney

The Prow (5.11d), Recombeast (5.9), Deidre (5.9+) at Cathedral

Eyeless in Gaza (5.12b) and Vultures (5.10d) at Sundown Ledge

VMC DD (5.10+) on Cannon

A lot of people consider Underdog to be one of the best 10's at Rumney, I would agree. Easyish climbing but super fun. Same can be said for Armed and Dangerous. Masterpiece is also really good. Just got on Protruding Forehead at Shelving Rock, along with Johnny Tsunami and Die by the Drop. All super fun, sustained 10's.

sthomas wrote:Ginseng (5.12c) or Shagg It (5.12d) at Shagg Crag in Maine Predator (5.13b), Giant Man (5.12b/c), Technosurfing (5.12b) at Rumney The Prow (5.11d), Recombeast (5.9), Deidre (5.9+) at Cathedral Eyeless in Gaza (5.12b) and Vultures (5.10d) at Sundown Ledge VMC DD (5.10+) on Cannon

This is a REALLY REALLY good list! SHAGG def has some of the BEST in New England!!!

The other one I totally forgot of was WILD RIVER, Big Red (5.11d) 145ft.! WILD RIVER IS A MUST!!!

A lot of good routes given already.
I would add, for Rumney alone, just about every climb between OrangaHang and Tropicana (P1&P2) at Orange Crush is worthwhile. Plus Buried Treasure (and Black Mamba, P1&P2, already mentioned).

CaptainMo wrote: IDK about this with regards to CT. We're the only place in New England with the amazing bullet Trap Rock. Unconquerable, Cat Crack, Dol Guldur, Sublime, just to name a few harder classics in the state, are nothing like anywhere else in New England so I would say your're wrong. CT has the Best Traprock climbin in New England. There's also some amazing lines at Chatfield Hollow like Shape Shifter (12 sport) and Forearm Frenzy (11 trad) that are, IME, unique to New England. I am a bit biased being the CT admin...

Id toss in Dol Guldur at East Peak as being the best 5.11 in the state

VMC Direct- Cannon
Lab Wall- Cannon
Gamesmanship- Poko
Fastest Gun- Poko

Almost any Barber route on Cathedral/ Whitehorse

CaptainMo wrote: JAWS II???? REALLY? you're going to put that down on a list of best climbs under 5.13 in New England? Come'on that list stinks for Rumney all over... maybe except for the Falcon... Rumney list should include: Predator, Techosurfing, Social Outcast, Flyin' Hawaiian, Rip Tide, Flesh for LuLu, Thin Man, Giant Man, Restless Native, Man Overboard, Black Mamba, Stone Monkey.

He probably flipped through the guidebook and guessed.. Greg's experience at rumney doesn't get far from parking lot wall.

+1 on Orangahang to the Rumney list

Future Shock at Whitehorse.. such a cool feature. (and i hate slab so that says a lot)

RI boulders..

Chelsea Smiles.. one of the hardest in the NE
Chemical (even the easier stand start is fun)
Loadies Zen

To add some less well known ones, since they are not right by the road:

Mr. Owl 12b/c sport - 100 feet of steep, intricate face climbing on Owl's, Right Cliff, NH.

Crack of the Future 12b/c trad - finger crack and face climbing, Owl's, Left Cliff

The Alaskan Slab 11d sport. A cool one pitch slab to pockets and corner route - Owl's Left Cliff.

Greenpeace 12a trad - 200 foot finger and hand crack, Green's Cliff, NH

Too many to list from Rumney, but I'll add Beat Junkie 13b, Corral Sea 13b, The Crusher 11d, all sport.

M Sprague wrote:To add some less well known ones, since they are not right by the road: Mr. Owl 12b/c sport - 100 feet of steep, intricate face climbing on Owl's, Right Cliff, NH. Crack of the Future 12b/c trad - finger crack and face climbing, Owl's, Left Cliff The Alaskan Slab 11d sport. A cool one pitch slab to pockets and corner route - Owl's Left Cliff. Greenpeace 12a trad - 200 foot finger and hand crack, Green's Cliff, NH Too many to list from Rumney, but I'll add Beat Junkie 13b, Corral Sea 13c, The Crusher 11d, all sport.

Mark, you beat me to it....I was starting to wonder how nobody had mentioned Beat Junkie. That rig is classic coast-to-coast.