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Favorite bouldering traverse?
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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Apr 6, 2011
steve edwards wrote:
Gunsmoke is ok. It would be great if the movement weren't so boring and there wasn't a no hands rest in it, and it finished on a summit of sorts (at least a top out)


Skip the rest, at the end reverse back to the corner, climb the corner to topout, problem solved.

Fat Dad wrote:
Plus the crowds of people standing in line only to flail in the first 10 ft. is kind of annoying.


Not annoying when they're scantily clad hot chix, or spraying shirtless beanie-clad wankers who you can burn off.

Paul Barnes wrote:
Sunset Girdle Traverse, Sunset Rock, Chattanooga Tennessee


Yep, a worthy addition. Would get more attention if it were in a bouldering area...or if there was a place to park at the trailhead for more than like 3 cars.

FLAG
By Owen Darrow
From Garmisch,
Apr 6, 2011
Nice view
I forget the name of the traverse in Yosemite that is in the 50 Best Climbs in North America book that traverses El Cap. Never done it but it look long and hard!

FLAG
By steve edwards
From SLC, UT
Apr 6, 2011
That traverse (base of Middle) is AWFUL! Utterly puke-fest-edly bad.

I'm pretty sure Kauk was either sandbagging or in a really weird place when he gave them that info. I tried it--even did most of it--in one of my more open-minded phases and, ugh. First, it's like a 400' or something slab. My feet hurt just thinking about it. A lot of it is easy and really really boring. Some of it is very hard but unless micro edging on glass is your thing also really really boring (I realize that Kauk is almost magically good at this style of climbing--Magic Line, Coffin Nail, etc, but still, this doesn't mean its good climbing). It also gets silly high in a few places and it's not like someone is going to spot you and move your pad around for hours while you're standing on dimes sorting this thing out.

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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Apr 6, 2011
I can see how the Ape Wall traverse might be kind of boring. While I always liked it for training, I thought the moves (moving L to R) both getting into that big pod and then exiting it were pretty interesting for the grade.

Given the hype about the Sandbox, I'm tempted to give it another look, though I suspect it's got a big pool at its base right now.

I look at pictures of the off limits Ripper Traverse and it looks awesome: supertopo.com/tr/The-Classic-P...

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By steve edwards
From SLC, UT
Apr 6, 2011
Whoa... wait... where is the thing in Price?!!

I am probably slightly over-hyping the Sandbox but it is very good for any area and the beautiful water polished holds are amazing for SoCal. The crux section (40' or so) is underwater but you can do 100' or so in each direction right now. I was there a few weeks back. Doesn't get much traffic and could use a little gardening at the base but the holds are clean and chalked.

Never mind. I found it. I've actually been to that area but didn't know what anything was and it wasn't in good condition. Didn't leave much of an impression on the place so I'll have to put it on my list and head back. Thanks.

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By Rob Gordon
From Hollywood, CA
Apr 7, 2011
Tough Mantle Problem.  Haven't sent yet...
Where is the sandbox?

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By IanA
From Durango, CO
Apr 7, 2011
Durango Bouldering Guide Cover
Steve the Sacred Traverse itself is not on the data base but Sailing Hawks in Durango, CO is which will get you in to the area. It is on the Euro Boulder which is one of the best boulders in the Durango area. If you are planing a trip and want to see what else is out there for bouldering you can pick up a copy of the Durango Bouldering Guide Book. Also, if you want the locals tour feel free to hit me up.

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By bhoran
From Boulder, CO
Apr 7, 2011
Noting Except Dynamics NED
Traverse of the Decade, has become my favorite, left to right, still working on right to left, Full House connection. In my opinion, one of the best traverses I have found to date, BoCan.
Traverse of the Decade
Traverse of the Decade

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By bhoran
From Boulder, CO
Apr 7, 2011
Noting Except Dynamics NED
Always liked those Gill traverses like The Ripper and Torure Chamber Traverses. Moonlight Drive Traverse at Hueco Tanks, The Ghetto Traverse, in the Flatirons, Makanda Bluff Traverse in Southern Illinois, The Blow Outs at Garden of the Gods and the list could go on and on. I wonder how many are still accessible to climbers?
Ripper Traverse
Ripper Traverse

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By steve edwards
From SLC, UT
Apr 7, 2011
This simplest directions to the Sandbox are to take Mulhollond inland off of PCH for about a mile and a half until in drops down to the creek. Park here and walk back down the creek toward the ocean for about 10 minutes.

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By steve edwards
From SLC, UT
Apr 8, 2011
I've been on Wheel of Life. It's pretty rad. A tad hard for me (understatement) though it does break into a bunch of shorter problems that are doable. It's only kind of a traverse. Feels more like an up roof problem that traverses at the end. I think anyone would be psyched to have it in their backyard but the location is challenging.

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By Davi Rivas
From Ventura, CA
Apr 8, 2011
Davi Rivas on the U-Notch, Palisades, 06/06/2011
Yeah, the Sandbox and the Echo Traverse pretty fun. The Cave Dweller Traverse at Boney Bluff is a good one too(I cant quite finish that one, yet). I also like the Trout Farm Traverse at Wheeler Gorge, nice and shady over water, very fun.

davi.

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By Joe Huggins
From Grand Junction
Apr 8, 2011
mmmm....tree
Where's Jack? Ran into Pam Roberts a little while ago;Jack is in Chamonix-with clients. Anyway-that isn't what I want to tell you about. My favorite traverse is the Monkey Traverse on Flagstaff (wait for it...)because...
About 28 or so years ago; I was bouldering on a hot summer day; I had the traverse wired-but-on the high ball last move, I greased off! Those who have been there know that there is a small boulder at the base under the finish...
So;I do a four point stick on the boulder...but; I lose my balance, backwards, and tweak my ankle, landing on my (bare) back in the nasty gravel at the base. A few guys help me to this dude's car, and he drives me to my cohabitation in Martion Acres. I go to Boulder Community-they say it isn't broken. I borrow some crutches from a friend,and jump into the van with my brothers and sisters to go to The Dead show at McNichols Arena. They're all trippin' hard; Tom left his keys locked in the van...We get back to the van after the show. What to do? Well, it's obvious, isn't it? USE A CRUTCH TO PUNCH OUT THE VENT WINDOW! So I did... Didn't break it;just opened it. Proves what they used to say;"God looks out for the Acid Heads because no one else wiil".

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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Apr 9, 2011
Where's the Echo Traverse? Some where at Echo I'm assuming, but where exactly?

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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Apr 9, 2011
on top of the RNWF June 2012
Footless Traverse at swiftwater is pretty fun.

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By JJNS
Apr 9, 2011
Makanda Bluff +1
Makanda Bluff +1


Makanda Bluff has great sandstone features and instead of traversing on one level you end up doing a lot of climbing up and back down to find the path of least resistance.

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By Monty
From Golden, CO
Apr 9, 2011
Just a teaser
Don't know what it's called, but the traverse that starts right next to the river and can go all the way up the wind tower in Eldo is pretty excellent. Lots of variations and really fun.

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By chad wolak
Jun 21, 2011
pioneer park - St. George, Utah

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