By camhead
Dec 6, 2010
| I know it has to be 4 pitches or longer, but you've got to represent the Gunks. MF and Bonnie's Roof are my favorites at that grade. | 
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By sqwirll
From Las Vegas
Dec 6, 2010
| The Larry wrote: Outerspace- Snow Creek Canyon, Levenworth, Wa Lexington Tower- Washington Pass. Wa
Good choices. I'd add NW Corner of NEWS to that list. |
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By Mark Roth
From Boulder
Dec 7, 2010
| Traveler Buttress, Lover's Leap |
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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Dec 7, 2010
| The Undone Book
The Center Thumb
The Great Escape
The Triple OverHangs
The Lowe Route
The Vertical Smile
All in the Lone Peak Cirque area of the Wasatch, UT. |
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By Kevin Landolt
From Fort Collins, Wyoming
Dec 7, 2010
| Cow's are People Too - North Slabs of Greyrock, Poudre Canyon,Colorado.
Direct S. Ridge on Notchtop, RMNP. |
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By Kirk Miller
From Golden, CO
Dec 7, 2010
| Indecent Exposure, Hueco Tanks
Center Route, Cynical Pinnacle |
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By kennoyce
From Clearfield, UT
Dec 7, 2010
| colin tuck wrote: Kor-Ingalls- Castleton
+1 |
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By daniel c
From San Francisco, CA
Dec 7, 2010
| West Crack (Daff Dome - Tuolumne Meadows)
and bump to Central Pillar of Frenzy (Middle Cathedral Rock - Yosemite Valley) |
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By Kat A
From Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Dec 7, 2010
| slim wrote: not sure how in the hell the steck salathe hasn't been mentioned yet.
Steck-Salathe 5.9?!? Yikes, most people would disagree with that. (I can vouch for that bruised leg photo.)
I agree with others about Center Route - a great 5.9. |
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By DKheat
From Buckeye, AZ
Dec 7, 2010
| Regular Route on Fairview Dome Tuolumne
Blown Away on DAFF Dome Tuolumne
On the Lamb on Lamb Dome Tuolumne
Mainliner on Sundance Buttress Lumpy Ridge
Phobos (3 pitches) on Phobos/Deimos Cliff
Beulah's Book to Arch Enemy to Solar Slab
(1500' of climbing)Las Vegas Oak Creek pullout
Recombeast, Cathedral Ledge New Hampshire
Regular Route of Higher Cathedral Spire in Yosemite
a lot more I am not thinking of... |
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By slim
Dec 8, 2010
| hmm steck salathe 5.10... i guess some people are calling the narrows pitch (i think) 10b these days, but i had thought the traditional grade was 5.9. maybe substitute NEB on HCR. |
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By JLP
From The Internet
Dec 8, 2010
| slim wrote: hmm steck salathe 5.10... i guess some people are calling the narrows pitch (i think) 10b these days, but i had thought the traditional grade was 5.9. maybe substitute NEB on HCR.
It's the Wilson Overhang - 1 move of 10b or somesuch as of 1990-1993ish when a chunk fell out of it. Also, it used to be 5.9 A1 because of the rap/aid options above the flying buttress, but a lot of soloists have done it now and they just downclimb the rap, I believe. Yeah, in general I'd agree, a 5.9 route with mostly 5.7 and 5.8 climbing and 2 moves of 10b. One of the crappiest long routes I've ever done that for some reason I would like to go back to... |
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By davedad
Dec 12, 2010
| On a gray day would love to kickstart this thread again. I am dreaming of long routes for the spring, summer, and fall. Love the suggestions- definitely some sore bodies acquired in ticking some of these classic 5.9 trads (Ouch to the Steck Salathe photo) It sure seems like a lot of these routes have the mandatory wide section to underscore their trad nature. Any other suggestions out there? I know there are some under the radar classics awaiting a champion. |
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By Josh Olson
From madison, wisconsin
Dec 12, 2010
| Pine Tree Crack at the Hillbilly Hollow in Coloma, Wisconsin
I love this climb, starts out as a techy face climb and turns into a solid hand crack. Super scary beginning, I didn't really get gear until after the crux 15 feet up or so.
Right Crack of Hydroponics at Petenwell bluff in Necedah, Wisconsin
First trad lead in the .9's, this climb just felt natural and smooth.
Bluebells at Tettegouche State Park in Tofte? Minnesota
The dihedral was probably the most fun I've had climbing a crack all year.
Oh, and you have to cut me some slack, I live in Wisconsin. Multi-pitch is something I dream about. |
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By fossana
From Eldorado Springs, CO
Dec 12, 2010
| Sill to T-bolt traverse (Palisades, High Sierra)
N Buttress (Mt Goods, High Sierra)
Sweet Thin (Red Rocks)
Open Book (Tahquitz)
Kor-Ingalls (Castleton Tower) |
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By Rob Dillon
From '81 Sunrader
Dec 13, 2010
| Half Dome? 5.9 about covers the "mandatory" free on the Regular Route, and boy is that a fun one. |
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By Mike
From Phoenix
Dec 14, 2010
| How about:
-Absinthe Of Mallet, with the newer finish, Cochise Stronghold.
-Dr Rubos Wild Ride, Sedona. The Mace's lesser known but better little brother.
-Sun Ribbon Arete, High Sierra.
-Whodunnit, Tahquitz
-Igor Unchained, The (Ca) Needles. I know it is only 2-3 pitches, but still. |
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By Rschap
From Grand Junction, CO
Dec 26, 2010
| Fishhook Aręte, Mt Russell
Otto’s Route, Independents Monument, Colorado National Monument
Most of the rest on my list were mentioned, like whodunit and open book. |
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