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This east facing wall, a couple of minutes up river from Warm Up Wall is generally shady and has worthwhile climbs in a wide range of grades. The two must do climbs are the partnered stretcher hard 11s, Lalaland and From Chocolate to Morphine which seem to be developing a following. If you're looking to get off the beaten path without having to go to much trouble, FT's left side has an upper tier whose routes see little traffic (approach pitch required).
From where the Central Gully approach meets the road, walk north/upriver. The first significant cliff on the west side is Faulty Towers.
19 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Faulty Tower
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Faulty Tower:
Stradivarius 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad
Fender Strat 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Perched 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Crash Landing 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Over the Top 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Lalaland 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
From Chocolate to Morphine 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Desert Storm 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Crybaby 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Faulty Tower
From Chocolate to Morphine 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Faulty Tower
From Chocolate to Morphine is a wonderful name for this climb -- the pump escalates in precisely that fashion. Climb a flake that sits at the base of the main dihedral of the Faulty Tower, then up into the crack in the corner -- reaching right to clip bolts. Eventually step right and shake out at a great horizontal below the roof. Pull this roof on a questionable jug, and bust straight up the overhanging, blunt arete. After a few clips, cut directly left around the arete (there's chalk every...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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