Faulty Tower Rock Climbing
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|Location: ||37.51367, -118.57129 View Map Incorrect?
|Page Views: ||4,332|
|Administrators: ||Aron Quiter, John Robinson, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By: ||david goldstein on Aug 1, 2006|
"From Chocolate to Morphine". Photo by B...
This east facing wall, a couple of minutes up river from Warm Up Wall is generally shady and has worthwhile climbs in a wide range of grades. The two must do climbs are the partnered stretcher hard 11s, Lalaland and From Chocolate to Morphine which seem to be developing a following. If you're looking to get off the beaten path without having to go to much trouble, FT's left side has an upper tier whose routes see little traffic (approach pitch required).
From where the Central Gully approach meets the road, walk north/upriver. The first significant cliff on the west side is Faulty Towers.
Climbing Season For the Central Gorge area.
Weather station 18.2 miles from here
19 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Faulty Tower
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Faulty Tower
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Faulty Tower:
Perched 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Over the Top 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Lalaland 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Desert Storm 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Crybaby 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Faulty Tower
Desert Storm 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a CA
: Sierra Eastside
: ... : Faulty Tower
Desert Storm requires an approach via Stradivarius or Fender Strat (Both excellent lines on their own) but despite it being "out of the way" is, in my opinion, one of the best .12 pitches in the gorge. The pitch ascends a beautiful golden face with big exposure and incredibly sustained moves on crimps and small pockets. Though the route is only 6 bolts long, when you look to place your feet you feel that you are much higher off the deck as all you can see is the river, and not the small tower on...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
By Kyle Townsend
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 15, 2012
The route order for this area is pretty butchered.
From left to right:
Solito ** 10c 5 bolts to anchors
For the following 3, approach via easy 5th class to ledge:
Baby Duck *** 11b 6 bolts to anchors
Free Falling *** 11d 6 bolts to anchors
Open Project ? 1 bolt
Forkash and Riches ** 12a 5 bolts to anchors
Finger Food * 10d 4 bolts to anchors
Fender Strat **** 10a 9 bolts to anchors
Sly Little Fart Blaster 11d 8 bolts to anchors
Stradivarius **** 8 3 bolts, gear to 2.5" to anchors
Approach via Fender Strat or Stradivarius:
Desert Storm **** 12a 6 bolts to anchors
Slot Machine * 10a 2 bolts, gear to 2" to rap station
Lalaland ***** 11c 12 bolts to anchors
Choc. to Morph. ***** 11d 13 bolts to anchors
Choc. to Choss. ** 9 6 bolts to anchors
Ballet Recital poor 10b Gear to 3.5" to one bolt anchor
Crybaby **** 12c 7 bolts to anchors
Desire ** 13a 4 bolts, stick clip, anchors
Crash Landing *** 11a 5 bolts to anchors
Project Cont. of Crash Landing, 5 bolts
Perched **** 10d 9 bolts to anchors
What's its Face *** 10b 7 bolts to anchors
Double Take * 8 6 bolts, sporty, anchors
Please, those of you who have the time, re-sort the route accordingly. Any that I add, I will place in the best order I can.