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This east facing wall, a couple of minutes up river from Warm Up Wall is generally shady and has worthwhile climbs in a wide range of grades. The two must do climbs are the partnered stretcher hard 11s, Lalaland and From Chocolate to Morphine which seem to be developing a following. If you're looking to get off the beaten path without having to go to much trouble, FT's left side has an upper tier whose routes see little traffic (approach pitch required).
From where the Central Gully approach meets the road, walk north/upriver. The first significant cliff on the west side is Faulty Towers.
19 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Faulty Tower
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Faulty Tower:
Perched 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Lalaland 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
From Chocolate to Morphine 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Crybaby 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Faulty Tower
Desert Storm 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Faulty Tower
Desert Storm requires an approach via Stradivarius or Fender Strat (Both excellent lines on their own) but despite it being "out of the way" is, in my opinion, one of the best .12 pitches in the gorge. The pitch ascends a beautiful golden face with big exposure and incredibly sustained moves on crimps and small pockets. Though the route is only 6 bolts long, when you look to place your feet you feel that you are much higher off the deck as all you can see is the river, and not the small tower on...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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