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Faulty Tower

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Duck S 
Crash Landing S 
Crybaby S 
Desert Storm S 
Double Take S 
Fender Strat S 
Finger Food S 
Forkash & Riches S 
From Chocolate to Chossman S 
From Chocolate to Morphine S 
Hang A Louie S 
Hill's Little Hill S 
Lalaland S 
Over the Top S 
Perched S 
Sly Little Fart Blaster S 
Solito S 
Stradivarius T 
What's Its Face S 
Unsorted Routes:

Faulty Tower 


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Page Views: 10,956
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, Euan Cameron, Adam Winters, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: david goldstein on Aug 1, 2006
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"From Chocolate to Morphine".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

This east facing wall, a couple of minutes up river from Warm Up Wall is generally shady and has worthwhile climbs in a wide range of grades. The two must do climbs are the partnered stretcher hard 11s, Lalaland and From Chocolate to Morphine which seem to be developing a following. If you're looking to get off the beaten path without having to go to much trouble, FT's left side has an upper tier whose routes see little traffic (approach pitch required).


Getting There 

From where the Central Gully approach meets the road, walk north/upriver. The first significant cliff on the west side is Faulty Towers.


Climbing Season


19 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',5],['5.11',7],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Faulty Tower:
Stradivarius   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad   
Fender Strat   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Perched   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Crash Landing   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Over the Top   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Lalaland   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
From Chocolate to Morphine   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Desert Storm   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Crybaby   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Faulty Tower

Featured Route For Faulty Tower
Beta <br />

Over the Top 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Faulty Tower
crux is about 3 bolts up on the headwall. The headwall is sustained, overhanging big holds. A bit reachy. Below the block is 5.9....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on Faulty Tower Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kyle Townsend
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 15, 2012

The route order for this area is pretty butchered.

From left to right:

Solito ** 10c 5 bolts to anchors

For the following 3, approach via easy 5th class to ledge:

Baby Duck *** 11b 6 bolts to anchors
Free Falling *** 11d 6 bolts to anchors
Open Project ? 1 bolt

Forkash and Riches ** 12a 5 bolts to anchors
Finger Food * 10d 4 bolts to anchors
Fender Strat **** 10a 9 bolts to anchors
Sly Little Fart Blaster 11d 8 bolts to anchors
Stradivarius **** 8 3 bolts, gear to 2.5" to anchors

Approach via Fender Strat or Stradivarius:

Desert Storm **** 12a 6 bolts to anchors

Slot Machine * 10a 2 bolts, gear to 2" to rap station
Lalaland ***** 11c 12 bolts to anchors
Choc. to Morph. ***** 11d 13 bolts to anchors
Choc. to Choss. ** 9 6 bolts to anchors
Ballet Recital poor 10b Gear to 3.5" to one bolt anchor
Crybaby **** 12c 7 bolts to anchors
Desire ** 13a 4 bolts, stick clip, anchors
Crash Landing *** 11a 5 bolts to anchors
Project Cont. of Crash Landing, 5 bolts
Perched **** 10d 9 bolts to anchors
What's its Face *** 10b 7 bolts to anchors
Double Take * 8 6 bolts, sporty, anchors

Please, those of you who have the time, re-sort the route accordingly. Any that I add, I will place in the best order I can.

Thanks!
Kyle T