Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Frat Boy Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Duck and Cover S 
Fatman S 
Hiroshima S 
Nagasaki S 
Natural, The S 
Unnamed S 

Fatman 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Snell, Tom Kalakay
Page Views: 1,096
Submitted By: Ty Morrison-Heath on Jun 21, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Unknown climber on Fatman.

Description 

The middle route on the top terrace, Fatman pulls through continuos pockets to reach its chain anchors. More an endurance fest than its neighbor The Natural I find Fatman to be a better climb. Watch out for the shithole (Literally a large hueco/pocket filled with droppings) and the water filled pockets at 2/3rd height.

Location 

Middle route on the top terrace.

Protection 

7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor


Comments on Fatman Add Comment
Show which comments
By David Stephens
From: Spokane WA.
Jul 10, 2013

I just might have save your life!
By Emoney
Jul 10, 2013

Well did you clip bolts on any other lines. I believe that those bolts where fine considering I climb on that route all the time. Maybe before you travel to a new area go talk to some locals before you decide to clip bolts on a classic line. What was your reasoning for clipping them???
By Leigh Ann Spokas
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 10, 2013

Very curious about the bolt breaking claim . . . pictures? Pretty damn sure I'd take a picture of that.
By Leigh Ann Spokas
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 11, 2013

So, what happened to all the hardware? Did he really take hardware from a local crag and leave? Wow. It seems that our friend may have removed all hangers and pounded in bolts from Fright Train as well. Joe and I will be up replacing ASAP.
By Emoney
Jul 11, 2013

leigh,
I would take photos tooo if I saw bolts that were falling out or broken. And yes leigh thats correct he took hangers and pounded in bolts. Really a bummer that some out of towner would do that tooo such awesome climbs!! Well thanks Joe and leigh, kevin and I will be up there tomorrow climbing.
Ethan
By TKrock
Jul 11, 2013

All,

Someone just sent me this link and I can't believe I'm commenting in one of these forums. They do, however, provide an effective way to communicate and inform people.

It appears that Mr. Stephens acts were mindless and, like many climbers these days, he has no knowledge or respect for the potential historical significance of a climb. Fatman and Fright Train were two of the earliest routes done at Bozeman Pass. They were originally done a quarter century ago. Their character and bolting style, reflects an age when the very first power drill was used by a Bozeman climber. We were just emerging from decades of drilling on lead with a hand drill and not yet accustomed to blasting in a bolt every five feet. Nonetheless the bolt placements on these climbs were well thought out and the climbs seemed safe enough. If 25 year old bolts are still being used on these routes, perhaps it is time to think about replacing them. In doing so, please respect and try to maintain the original character of the route. Contacting the first-ascentionist might also be a good idea.

Climbing styles and attitudes change or evolve with time, giving our sport a rich and interesting history. The next time you're about to selfishly bash in a bolt, let your dog burrow at the base of a climb, or attach a perma-draw to an established route, stop and consider the thoughts and efforts of climbers that came before you and those that will climb there in the future. Hopefully you'll change your mind.

Happy Climbing

TK