Fatman and Robin M9
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| Type: | Mixed, 2 pitches |
| Consensus: | M8-9 [details] |
| FA: | P1: Pete Takeda, P2: Ryan Nelson |
| Season: | Mid Winter |
| Submitted By: | Daniel Battin on Jan 21, 2008 |
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Brett almost onsighted it on his third try (that n...
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Description This route starts steep then relents to a mild traverse to good ice. After some stemming between rock and ice there is a short roof which leads to more stemming between rock and a more delicate hanging ice. At the top of the ice and after the third small overhang lies the slings.
Per RYAN NELSON, pitch 2:
Pete Takeda originally bolted this line, as a 2nd pitch to finish Fatman and Robin. I don't think it sees much traffic as it is mainly rock drytooling. Sustained, cool if you have done Vail's other mixed offerings. It is 70 feet and is protected by bolts.
Location This is the last mixed line at the far right in the Amphitheater.
Protection 4 bolts, 2 med screws, 2 bolts and an old piton, 1 rusted bolt that can be backed up with a small cam (the first and second bolts have loose hangers, and the last bolt is quite rusted).
Getting to blue gold and a rest.
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Grunting up the evility on a warm, late-winter day...
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| Comments on Fatman and Robin |
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By Daniel Battin
From: Green Mtn. Falls, CO
Jan 22, 2008
| That's right Brett! Stay positive.
Next time will be my fifth on-sight attempt. |
By Top Rope Hero
From: Estes Park
Apr 2, 2010
| True story:
Up walks me and Tony Angelis to the Designator Amphitheater. We brought this kid with us, right? Sam. Sam's NEVER been mixed climbing, right? ONLY done his first TR ice climbing the week before.
So we're walking around, asking the Vail regulars what might be good M line for a rookie like Sam. Sam looks over at Fatman and says, "Hey, we should do THAT!" He trots over and starts flakin' rope and setting out his POS ice tools, a pair of awful leash-less BD Reactors he borrowed from Summit Canyon. Meanwhile all the wide-eyed, head-shaking hard men are grumblin', "This guy's gonna die...what a prick."
It's right about the time that Sam reaches the very top of the first ice pillar, unprotected--this after just FLOATING the opening cave moves--that all of us watching, entranced, slack-jawed, stupefied, start to think: "Hey wait-a-minute...mortals can't do THAT!"
Then, with a goofy smile, Sam shouts down from what would easily be a groundfall smack-down: "Hummm...say. I should probably set a screw or something. How do I do that?"
He goes on, of course, to smoke Fatman and a handful of other Vail testpieces that day not even THINKING of falling.
It was only later that I found out from Tony that Sam is Sam Elias, 5.14 freakboy whose face is plastered all over the latest Rifle Mountain Park guide. And so it came to pass that I was allowed to belay one of the gods.
Which was ALMOST as cool as when Ines Papert used my laptop to phone home. That I should be so lucky.... |
By Jesse Huey
Feb 10, 2012
| Probably one of the best routes in the amphitheater because it has ICE!!!!
The last bolt is "special."
DO IT! |
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