Fathom Escape Hatch
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|Type: ||Trad, Aid, 7 pitches, 875 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.11 A2 [details]|
|FA: ||Mike Fischesser, Joe Lovenshimer, Brad Wilson 2012|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||BradWilson on Dec 25, 2012|
BETA PHOTO: Route
This is a fun and varied route: slab, aid with mandatory free, and water groove. Two ring anchors at each belay.
P1 (5.9) 160' Climb up and right passing bolts and natural protection.
P2 (5.10) 185' Climb left, then straight up, passing bolts and natural protection.
P3 (5.9) 100' Follow the crack then climb up and right passing protection bolts.
P4 (5.11 A2) Free & aid your way up this imposing pitch. The pitch has been led at 5.11 C2. Bolts, rivets, natural protection.
P5 (5.10 A0) Stem up to & A0 from a bolt. Climb the groove past bolts and natural protection.
P6 (5.10) 55' Climb the groove past bolts.
P7 (5.10) Continue up the groove passing bolts and natural protection.
Rap the route
Start right of "Cruising With the Top Down/Fathom ALT start" & the 1972/3 Fulton/Mitchell attempt & left of the high pine tree where Fathom Direct begins.
(2) 60M ropes
(2) 000 C3 - .75 C4 (orange alien and green yellow offset alien helpful)
(1) #1 C4 - #4 C4
(1) large offset nuts
(1) rps/offset brass nuts (optional)
(2) Rivet Hangers
BETA PHOTO: Photo Topo
|Comments on Fathom Escape Hatch
From: western NC
Dec 31, 2012
Thanks for posting Brad! I always wondered about that groove. You think this thing will ever go all free?
Dec 31, 2012
Pitch 4 may go free...it could be 5.13+ or even 5.14?? I tried to place the protection bolts for the aid and the potential free climber. Double digit bouldering from the apron leads to slopers (which may not go), to stemming, to a rest, then 5.12 climbing leads into another hard (maybe 5.13-) crux getting to the hard exiting mantle. The A0 move on the fifth pitch might go free. I would compare it to stemming up the inside of an hourglass. A slabby free variation might go left around this move, if it is impossible to free climb. I hope someone can free climb this one day!
|By burlap submariner|
Jan 24, 2013
Looks fucking awesome!!!! nice style too, will be a classic free direct when it goes! great work guys.