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This is on a buttress closer to the road than the bulk of the routes. Follow the clearest trail from the road. As soon as you reach the rock face, cut left along the rock until you reach a downclimb to a ledge with several trees. From the shady ledge, follow three bolts (1 and 2 spaced close enough to prevent a ground fall). After 3rd bolt look for about three bomber placements before the fourth bolt. Crux is a bolt-protected sidepull move up right side of a short headwall below the large ledge where the chains are located.
Five 3/8" S/S Rawl bolts and gear to 1 1/2".1/2" S/S Rawl bolts with grade 43 cold shuts and grade 43 chain anchors shared with Wits End. You probably need a 60 meter rope for this one.
By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
May 9, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The 5.8+ face move up high is a bit contrived, as there is practically a staircase to the right of the face. Otherwise it's mostly 5.7 with some fun thin stuff down low at the bolts to big, easily protected ledges and steps above. This was my first lead placing gear and I might recommend it for such because of the bolts on the hard parts and the fact that the gear placement is on very easy ground.