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 ADVANCED
The Hand
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back in Slacks S 
Back in Yaks T,TR 
Cardboard Cowboy S 
East Face/Hand T 
Father on Fire T,S 
Lackin' Slacks (aka The Full Monty) T 
New Saigon S 
Perfect Kiss (P1 of Rock Atrocity), The S 
Power Bulge S 
Quest for Balance S,TR 
Rock Atrocity S 

Father on Fire 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Paul Glover 1987
Page Views: 649
Submitted By: Steve Annecone on Mar 16, 2003

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The lower half of Father on Fire (taken 11/28/03)

  • Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Approach the west face of the Hand as for Power Bulge and Back in Slacks. Then head up the ramp just a few feet west (uphill) of Power Bulge. Scramble up the slippery slab maybe 50 yards to a flatter ledge area at the base of Father on Fire and New Saigon.

    Father in Fire is the beautiful, steep crack that shoots up from the right side of the ledge. Clip a bolt to protect the initial moves, then fire straight up the sustained, high-quality crack. Two more bolts and natural gear protect the route well, although it's pumpy to place. It is quite sustained and feels like a lot of climbing for only 45 or 50 feet.

    From the top of the pitch, rap off the slings on the pillar or move up and left to a 2-bolt anchor at the top of an un-named sport route and rap.

    Protection 

    This pitch has 3 bolts, but natural gear is also recommended to minimize the runout factor.

    Bring camming devices, from smallest up to thin hand-sized, in addition to draws for the bolts.


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    By Steve Annecone
    From: boulder
    Apr 18, 2005

    Gear Alert
    CONDITION REPORT 
    Unfortunately, the bolts are missing from this route as of 4-16-05, hopefully the bolt yanker (whoever that may be?) is preparing to replace them soon. It's probably leadable in it's current state but it would be s or vs most likely. Anyone have an update out there? The nearby Perfect Kiss is also missing the bolts... sad state of affairs up on Dinosaur Mtn. these days....