Father on Fire  5.10d

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet FA:  Paul Glover 1987 Submitted By:  Steve Annecone on Mar 16, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The lower half of Father on Fire (taken 11/28/03)

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Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>> The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July: Ridge Two Ridge Three Ridge Four Achaen Prnouncement Back Porch Argonaut Dreadnought North Ridge Bear Creek Spire Details. All East Face routes on the following formations are closed 1 April to 1 October (routes on the North, South & West Faces remain open): The Hand Mallory Flatironette Shark's Fin Finger Flatiron The following routes on Der Zerkle are closed from 1 April to 1 September: Sunnyside One East Face Left East Face Right Details. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Flatirons Climbing Council Preserving climbing access in the Flatirons

Description 

Approach the west face of the Hand as for Power Bulge and Back in Slacks. Then head up the ramp just a few feet west (uphill) of Power Bulge. Scramble up the slippery slab maybe 50 yards to a flatter ledge area at the base of Father on Fire and New Saigon.

Father in Fire is the beautiful, steep crack that shoots up from the right side of the ledge. Clip a bolt to protect the initial moves, then fire straight up the sustained, high-quality crack. Two more bolts and natural gear protect the route well, although it's pumpy to place. It is quite sustained and feels like a lot of climbing for only 45 or 50 feet.

From the top of the pitch, rap off the slings on the pillar or move up and left to a 2-bolt anchor at the top of an un-named sport route and rap.

Protection 

This pitch has 3 bolts, but natural gear is also recommended to minimize the runout factor.

Bring camming devices, from smallest up to thin hand-sized, in addition to draws for the bolts.