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Stone Mountain South Face
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Father Knows Best 
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Father Knows Best 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a R

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Paul Pelot - 1991
Page Views: 930
Submitted By: saxfiend on Mar 12, 2007
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Description 

Maybe not the hardest, but likely the most sustained hard friction of the Tree Ledge approach routes; this one pretty much never lets up. One assumes the 5.8 rating in the "Selected Climbs" guidebook is a misprint.

Start at a short diagonal crack (or if you're up for it, make a direct start right of the crack). Follow the crack up and right, then straight up with delicate moves to the top. Can be toproped from the anchors with two ropes.


Location 

Starts just left of the Entrance Crack, near the right end of the Tree Ledge.


Protection 

Two bolts; ring anchors at the ledge.



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By nbrown
From: western NC
Nov 8, 2007

I climbed with the FA party a couple times. He told me stories about this route and how he had to hand drill one of the bolts with a broken bit while standing there on the slab. He claimed that it was so stressful on his calves that he acquired a varicose vein in one leg from that ascent. Haven't seen Paul out in a long time.

By Jim Singletary
Oct 29, 2011

Gear before the first bolt can require some gardening, depending on how much detritus has fallen into the crack. Good tri-cams posslble. Steep for the grade, sustained.

By csproul
From: Rancho Cordova, CA
Feb 27, 2012

I think 5.8 maybe 5.8+ is right on for this climb. It does not, however, really have a crux and never really lets up. Unlike many other Stone Mtn routes, it continues at the same difficulty whether by a bolt or far run-out, making it feel harder. From the last bolt to the anchors fells pretty far.