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 ADVANCED
Nautilus
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Little on the Ugly Side T,S 
Air Voyager With Report S 
Automotive Supply House T 
Baalbek T 
Baldwin's Chimney T 
Banana Hammock 
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) T 
Bat Heaven T,TR 
Blood Sport TR 
Bombay T 
Bombs Away aka B52 T 
Bug Squad T 
Candlestick T 
Cannonball T 
Captain Nemo T 
Central Scrutinizer, The T 
Cool Hand Luke T 
Cornelius T 
Crankenstein T 
Cupcake T 
Deception T 
Deep Throat T 
Drunken Redneck Rappellers S 
Dual T 
Easy Jam T 
Ejector-Rejector TR 
Elevator T 
Escalator T 
Etude For The Left Hand TR 
Etude For The Right Hand S 
Failure to Communicate T 
Father 1 T 
Final Cut, The T,S 
Finally T 
Flare Thee Well T 
Flying Buttress T 
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated T,TR 
Friday the 13th T 
Friday the 13th, Part 2 T 
Ghost Dance T 
Grand Traverse, The T 
Gravity's Rainbow T 
H & H Grunt T 
Hairlip T 
Hamburger Crack T 
Handjacker T 
Harder Than Your Husband T 
Hemoglobin T,TR 
Hesitation Blues T 
Horticulture T 
Humper T 
Hurley-Fowler T 
In The Dark T 
In the Groove T 
Jim Jam T 
Jim Jam Junior T 
Joke T 
Knee Grinder T,TR 
Knothole T 
Left Torpedo Tube T 
Lower Progressive T 
Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 
Lower Slot Left T 
Lower Slot Right T 
Lucky You T 
Max Factor T 
MaxiLash T 
Middle Parallel Space T 
Mother 1 T 
Nemo's Nemesis S 
Nemo's Toad T,TR 
Nitrogen Narcosis T 
Octagon T 
October Light T 
Old Eyeful T 
Outrider S 
Par Four T,TR 
Petite Tarsalation T,TR 
Piton Perch T 
Popcorn Farce T 
Postman, The T,S 
Pretty S 
Republic, The 
Right Parallel Space T 
Right Torpedo Tube T 
Right Winger T 
Sitdown Seam 
Slab Stealer T 
Slat T 
Slick and Superficial T,S 
Slit T 
Slut T,TR 
Soak'em In Cider 
Stand and Deliver S 
Step Ladder T 
Stinkzig T 
Straight 4 Ward T,TR 
Sun Up To Sundown 
Tarsalation T,TR 
Ted's Trot T 
Tempest 
Thin Lizzy T 
Thunderbolt T 
TTL T 
TTR T,TR 
Twinkle Toes 
Upper Progressive T 
Upper Slot Left T 
Vault T 
Vedajuicer, The T 
Vulture Direct T 
Wall-To-Wall T 
War Zone T,S 
Where the Sidewalk Ends 
Whipping Boy T 
Unsorted Routes:

Father 1 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jack Sprat
Page Views: 1,386
Submitted By: Aeon Aki on Jun 10, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Just right of Mother #1 is a splitter hand crack that fades into a seemingly perfect, finger crack before ending completely at a horizontal seam. Scramble to the base of the hand crack and enjoy 35 feet of sinker hand jams before arriving at the "finger crack." Notice now that this is not a finger crack at all but instead is a flared seam that will only accept the smallest wires on your rack. Place a piece, or two or three, then climb a scary and technical sequence on pebbles and crystals. Plug your thank-God piece in at the horizontal break then traverse left along the break and link into the top of Mother #1. A beautiful line and well worth the time if your RPs made it into the pack with all those #5s.

Protection 

RPs to #3 Camalot. Not sure that this one deserves a safety rating, but be prepared to pull the crux above the smallest gear you brought.


Comments on Father 1 Add Comment
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By slim
Administrator
Jun 10, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Great route for sure. Gear is good if you broght the right stuff, but be prepared to tinker.