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Just right of Mother #1 is a splitter hand crack that fades into a seemingly perfect, finger crack before ending completely at a horizontal seam. Scramble to the base of the hand crack and enjoy 35 feet of sinker hand jams before arriving at the "finger crack." Notice now that this is not a finger crack at all but instead is a flared seam that will only accept the smallest wires on your rack. Place a piece, or two or three, then climb a scary and technical sequence on pebbles and crystals. Plug your thank-God piece in at the horizontal break then traverse left along the break and link into the top of Mother #1. A beautiful line and well worth the time if your RPs made it into the pack with all those #5s.
RPs to #3 Camalot. Not sure that this one deserves a safety rating, but be prepared to pull the crux above the smallest gear you brought.
Jun 10, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Great route for sure. Gear is good if you broght the right stuff, but be prepared to tinker.