|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]|
|Submitted By:||stevecurtis on Mar 30, 2008|
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From: San Jose
Mar 31, 2008
I remember being lowered to the slings (p1 Fatal Mistake) from the top of Pink Dream for purpose of top rope p2 and 3 of Fatal Mistake.
It was almost stretch of 70 M rope. The book said that pitch from the sling (p2) is 5.10 and next (p3) 11a. I started climbing from the slings and instantly realize that it is not 5.10. Climbed probably 10-12 feet , fall and was back to the slings because of rope elongation. And again, and again. 10 feet up - down. I felt it is 5.11, 5.11+ which is above my TR ability. I did not take any gear with me to make my top roping easier , I even did not have the slings, so I can not aid this section. After trying 5-6 times I was really scared that it is going to be very stupid/shameful rescue of me. "Fatal Mistake" - this is a name. My wife at the top can not hear me, but she realized what was going on and gave me all possible tension from above. I finally made it, and after that crux 10-15 feet above the slings - the rest 200 feet of Fatal mistake - was a curser
By Josh Janes
Oct 5, 2008
We rapped from the top of Pink Dream with a single 70m rope and made it to a good belay stance on a foot ledge. We could sling a flake and use a wide piece for an anchor. If you climb up from here, the climbing is 5.10 with a short 5.11a section.
From here we fixed our second line and rapped down on a single line (a doubled over 70m rope would not reach -- this rap was more like 45 meters long) to slings wrapped around a flake: a natural place to stop. Below this point the crack becomes a seam. Climbing up from here felt like 5.11+ to me. It would probably be easier if the rock wasn't covered in lichen and if I had taped my fingers (the climbing is extremely painful). After about 20-30' the climbing eases off a lot and becomes beautiful 5.10 hands.