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Second Sella Tower
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Fata Morgana T 
Glueck Dihedral T 
Kasnakoff T 
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Fata Morgana 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Hans Peter Eiselnde, Hans Kammerlander
Season: summer
Page Views: 1,243
Submitted By: BenL on Mar 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

The first moves are the hardest. Protection with purple cam and green alien. Best is to use to ropes. Move upwards past the Messner until you should see chalked holds. The first moves look a bit loose. They are fine but bouldery, ways harder than the rest of the route.You see the belay from the bottom the 1. pitch trends a little leftwards. Go over a roof (crux .10(+)) then traverse left and climb to an obvious belay on threads.
The other pitches go over a not very obvious pillar. Follow the many slings you normally see. There are no other features to describe where to go, be experienced in Dolomites climbing and routefinding. Almost sraight up all the time. On the last pitch that starts from a ledge , move right up a groove then left to the final ledge below the summit.
Everything on this climb is great, the pro with no pins or bolts , only slings and cams. The rock is great, being even better than in the Messner. The line up a fantastic pillar is outstanding.
The last pitch is less good then the rest, but easy.
This is the best climb on a face that has another worldclass route on it, the Messner.
Not classic, in the sense of often done, but woth every star
Have fun!!!

Location 

in the north face of the 2. sella tower.
the start is hard to spot. The first moves lead over a roof 30 feet right of a dihedral that is the start of the Messner route.
Getting down is easy, use the trail on the the other side.

Protection 

lots of slings,many small cams to a few larger ones.
there are no pins or bolts on the route. leave it as it is


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