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 ADVANCED
a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alphonse T 
Baskerville Terrace T 
Broken Sling T 
Criss T 
Criss Cross Direct T 
Disney Point T 
Disneyland T 
Easy Rider T 
Fat City Direct T 
Fat Stick T 
Fat Stick Direct 5.10b T 
G-String Giants T 
Gelsa T 
Grand Central T 
Hounds, The T 
Independence T 
Infinite Space T 
Inverted Layback T 
Kansas City T 
Land of The Giants T 
Layback T 
Le Plie T 
Outer Space T 
Saint Louis T 
Sling Time T 
Swing Time T 
Te Dum T 
Yellow Belly T 
Yellow Ridge T 

Fat Stick 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, Hans Kraus, 1957
Page Views: 1,549
Submitted By: John Peterson on Mar 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Gene Smith protecting the crux.

Description 

The first pitch of this route is a nice, deceptively hard 5.7. Starting on the left side, climb an elegant arete to a notch in the roof above and pull through into the short open book above. Traverse left to a corner and belay; this is as far as most people go (a rap anchor is usually here).

The second pitch can either go up and left to Baskerville Terrace or up and right to Yellow Ridge.

Location 

Left of Yellow Ridge a long roof is broken by a nose - this is Fat Stick.

Protection 

Standard Gunks rack


Photos of Fat Stick Slideshow Add Photo
Gene Smith making the crux move.
Gene Smith making the crux move.

Comments on Fat Stick Add Comment
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By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Dec 27, 2007

This is also a great route to climb if you are looking to get out of the rain. Short, but fun and hard for the grade.
By Michael G
Jul 13, 2009
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

...or easy for the grade if you go by the Dick Williams 5.8 rating.
By Galen Rahmlow
From: Weehawken
May 21, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I found the crux to be after the notch (the "awkward move"), mainly because I got jammed in the flare had trouble moving anywhere after that. I also had trouble with gear. Could be PG but the gear all seems to be the same size - small. I burned through most of it moving up to the notch and only had a less than ideal nut to protect the awkward move above (wrong size). My follower loved the climb.
By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Dec 29, 2012

In Gran's 1964 guide he writes "this climb has a habit of ejecting 5.7 leaders."
By ARMoss
Jul 16, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Had plans to take a group of 3 up this, but top-roped everybody after pitch 1. Tight, cramped belay and awkward to organize.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Apr 22, 2014

Kind of strange. Worth doing once. The moves through the notch are awkward.