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The first pitch of this route is a nice, deceptively hard 5.7. Climb an elegant arete to a notch in the roof above and pull through. This is as far as most people go (a rap anchor may or may not be there). Traverse left to a corner and belay.
The second pitch can either go up and left to Baskerville Terrace or up and right to Yellow Ridge.
Left of Yellow Ridge a long roof is broken by a nose - this is Fat Stick.
Standard Gunks rack
Gene Smith making the crux move.
|By Chris Duca|
From: Havertown, PA
Dec 27, 2007
This is also a great route to climb if you are looking to get out of the rain. Short, but fun and hard for the grade.
|By Michael G|
Jul 13, 2009
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c
...or easy for the grade if you go by the Dick Williams 5.8 rating.
|By Galen Rahmlow|
May 21, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
I found the crux to be after the notch (the "awkward move"), mainly because I got jammed in the flare had trouble moving anywhere after that. I also had trouble with gear. Could be PG but the gear all seems to be the same size - small. I burned through most of it moving up to the notch and only had a less than ideal nut to protect the awkward move above (wrong size). My follower loved the climb.
|By Dana Bartlett|
Dec 29, 2012
In Gran's 1964 guide he writes "this climb has a habit of ejecting 5.7 leaders."
Jul 16, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Had plans to take a group of 3 up this, but top-roped everybody after pitch 1. Tight, cramped belay and awkward to organize.