Fat Stick 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8- [details] |
| FA: | Jim McCarthy, Hans Kraus, 1957 |
| Submitted By: | John Peterson on Mar 31, 2006 |
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Gene Smith protecting the crux.
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Description The first pitch of this route is a nice, deceptively hard 5.7. Climb an elegant arete to a notch in the roof above and pull through. This is as far as most people go (a rap anchor may or may not be there). Traverse left to a corner and belay.
The second pitch can either go up and left to Baskerville Terrace or up and right to Yellow Ridge.
Location Left of Yellow Ridge a long roof is broken by a nose - this is Fat Stick.
Protection Standard Gunks rack
Gene Smith making the crux move.
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By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Dec 27, 2007
| This is also a great route to climb if you are looking to get out of the rain. Short, but fun and hard for the grade. |
By Michael G
Jul 13, 2009
rating: 5.8-
| ...or easy for the grade if you go by the Dick Williams 5.8 rating. |
By Galen Rahmlow
From: Weehawken
May 21, 2012
rating: 5.8
| I found the crux to be after the notch (the "awkward move"), mainly because I got jammed in the flare had trouble moving anywhere after that. I also had trouble with gear. Could be PG but the gear all seems to be the same size - small. I burned through most of it moving up to the notch and only had a less than ideal nut to protect the awkward move above (wrong size). My follower loved the climb. |
By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Dec 29, 2012
| In Gran's 1964 guide he writes "this climb has a habit of ejecting 5.7 leaders." |
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