|a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
The first pitch of this route is a nice, deceptively hard 5.7. Starting on the left side, climb an elegant arete to a notch in the roof above and pull through into the short open book above. Traverse left to a corner and belay; this is as far as most people go (a rap anchor is usually here).
The second pitch can either go up and left to Baskerville Terrace or up and right to Yellow Ridge.
Left of Yellow Ridge a long roof is broken by a nose - this is Fat Stick.
Standard Gunks rack
Gene Smith making the crux move.
|By Chris Duca|
From: Havertown, PA
Dec 27, 2007
This is also a great route to climb if you are looking to get out of the rain. Short, but fun and hard for the grade.
|By Michael G|
Jul 13, 2009
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c
...or easy for the grade if you go by the Dick Williams 5.8 rating.
|By Galen Rahmlow|
May 21, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
I found the crux to be after the notch (the "awkward move"), mainly because I got jammed in the flare had trouble moving anywhere after that. I also had trouble with gear. Could be PG but the gear all seems to be the same size - small. I burned through most of it moving up to the notch and only had a less than ideal nut to protect the awkward move above (wrong size). My follower loved the climb.
|By Dana Bartlett|
Dec 29, 2012
In Gran's 1964 guide he writes "this climb has a habit of ejecting 5.7 leaders."
Jul 16, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Had plans to take a group of 3 up this, but top-roped everybody after pitch 1. Tight, cramped belay and awkward to organize.