|Sugarloaf, West Face
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"Sugarloaf's wide crack testpiece". Start in the wide chimney and burrow yourself in deep. After about 50 ft the crack narrows to a tight squeeze where you'll find a hideing piton in a horizontal crack deep inside the chimney. After clipping the piton, you'll have to drop down a few feet to be able to squeeze your way out of the crack. This is where the struggle begins. You can protect this section if you have 12" gear or you'll have to work your way up another 20 ft until you can get a #6 to stick. Keep in mind, you'll be 20 ft up and 30 ft out from that manky looking piton before you can get a solid piece of gear in. Once the squeeze chimney narrows to the point where it forces you out, despirate "thank God" foot and hand holds begin to appear and you can now plug in some much welcome gear. Now that the huff is over, make your way up an ever narrowing crack (w/ good pro) to the belay or continue to a short roof where you'll find a set of bolted anchors waiting on top...(60m rope only). The next pitch climbs some slightly runout face up a (sorta) chimney (5.6ish) and meets up in the south notch with Hardings Chimney. Follow that to the top. Much harder than Self Abuse or Midterm and the Meat Grinder in the Valley.
Wide gapeing chimney on the south west side of Sugarloaf. If you can walk into it ten feet and still turn around without touching rock, you've found it. Walk off the top or rap from the chains to the anchors for Pan Dulce then down to the anchors of Grand Delusion to the ground.
Pro to 12" (if you got it)
Cams, 4"-6" Nuts, 1 set.