A small little bouldering area along the blue trail in the Chatfield with steep roofs, overhangs, and corridors.
Here are the directions:
Park in the climber's lot at Chatfield Hollow on Route 80. Follow the wide, two-track, blue blazed trail for 10 minutes before taking a right onto the Blue and Red-dot trail. You can easily miss this, so pay attention! Follow this trail for ~5 minutes, eventually passing a steep cliff and a beautiful rectangular bolder(classic v4 on the front). Hop onto the road(champlain rd.) and walk uphill(west) for a few minutes. Take a left onto an obvious wide trail with boulders blocking the entrance. Walk down this trail for a few minutes until you can see large mossy rocks down in the valley to your left. Bush-wack down, hop a small stream, and find yourself at one of the coolest bouldering areas in the state.
The trail is not blue blazed until after you reach a sign 1/2 mile from the parking area. I wasn't able to find any obvious trail with boulders off of champlin rd. However, if you walk up champlin until the road split and then immediately turn left and head into the woods following the mossy ridge line on your right, there is a halfway decent trail which goes most of the way to the boulders. After passing one line of rocky ledges you reach a muddy area/stream cross this and continue in the same direction within 5 minutes you'll reach fat man's squeeze.
I did that a few times before i left home and then when i was out there i checked again...made it down into a marshy area and then ended up on a yellow blazed trail...never found a stream to hop..i feel like we just didnt go far enough, but it was getting late and i didnt see anything that gave me hope that i was heading in the right direction..ill try again this coming weekend..thanks!
I went there today, and its an easy 30 minute walk in to fat man squeeze going only off directions from here and with no knowledge of the area. but i found it first try with no slip ups. i definitely recommend bringing some friends (unless you can carry at least 5 pads) for some of the longer higher problems (which there are a lot of). I walked by a crag with some bolts in it near the "classic v4 crack" which was pretty good. couldn't find any info on the bolted line and the boulders around it which had some really fun routes on it especially if your alone and only have two pads like i did. for a moment i thought i was getting some FA's in that area until i saw some chalk :(
hey! does anybody know what the "classic v4" boulder on the way to the fat man's squeeze area before chaplain road is called? Me and my brother had an awesome sesh on that boulder the other day and it would be cool to know what some of those problems are called and rated.... because they definitely aren't FAs