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Don Freeman on the 3rd Ascent of the Fat Man. He ...
Fat Man (5.8/5.9) sits near his antithesis, Thin Man (5.9 really run out). Scramble to the top of the 4th Class Gully left of Thin Man and start off the small block. You'll clip six, well placed bolts on 80'(+/-)of clean, solid rock. The climb can be done as a single pitch or you can continue on up to Eat Mo' Possum (5.6). From the same anchor you can easily top rope Three to Get Ready (5.9). Other options include a move to the right to top rope Thin Man (5.9R) or a move to the left to top rope Swallow (5.7) or First Offense. Fat Man makes a great climb for a new leader. Most of the moves are 5.7 with a couple of 5.8s (and maybe a well protected 5.9) thrown in to make it fun. Great views for both the belayer and climber are a plus! Bring a 200'/60 meter rope if you want to rap this route.
Six or seven draws (you can clip the last 3 to Get Ready Bolt if you want). Bring a couple small cams or nuts if you'd like to supplement. Bring a couple extra draws to set up the the anchor. Please don't top rope directly off the courtesy clips.
BETA PHOTO: A corrected picture of the routes at the top of th...
BETA PHOTO: Swallow, Fat Man, Eat Mo' Possum. Swallow makes a...
BETA PHOTO: The Fat Man features well placed bolts on solid ro...
BETA PHOTO: Shadow Far Left Side
Bob Hill on the 2nd (lead) ascent of the Fat Man.
Floyd Hayes at the crux of The Fat Man. Photo by C...
BETA PHOTO: See update for Fat Man (5.8/5.9) and Middle Man st...
|By Jad Josey|
Feb 16, 2004
This climb is a welcome addition to the Shadow Wall. After a fun start, the climbing becomes a bit more interesting around the fifth bolt. This route will get better and better as more people climb it -- as of right now it's a bit caked with lichen. Also, there are seven bolts on this climb, not six.
|By John Dalbey|
Feb 16, 2004
This climb, "Fat Man," was established on rappel with a power drill, a significant and controversial departure from the traditional style (ground-up, hand-drilled ascents) at Bishop's Peak. This practice should be strongly discouraged. There's no reason this climb couldn't have been done in a style consistent with local history and traditions.
|By Kristin McNamara|
From: SLO, CA
Nov 7, 2004
This is a one-move wonder, and I wonder why that first bolt exists. Way too close to the ground and the second bolt. It's fairly fun, but requires some route finding and avoiding huge mud patches. It's a nice line. Good first 5.8 lead.
|By Adam Jones|
Nov 7, 2004
I agree, silly first bolt, but a fun climb
|By E Haro|
May 23, 2005
Just to clear things up.The start to Fat Man is also Easy Street. However Fat Man continues up to the shared anchors for 3 to Get Ready and Fat Man. Easy Street traverses left on the low angle slab to the anchors for 1st offense
|By John Knight|
Mar 1, 2009
Definitely 7 bolts. When you drill that many bolts (on rappel) it's hard to remember. You can even move left after bolt 7 & clip the top bolt on 3 to Get Ready for 8 bolts total! Anyway, bring lots of draws.
Several people I talked to thought the crux was harder than 5.8. I think a key hold may have broken off. Any thoughts on the grade?
Still a fun climb. I enjoy it every time I climb it.
|By Floyd Hayes|
Mar 22, 2010
I clipped into 8 bolts both times when I led it, in November 2008 and May 2009.
|By John Knight|
Jun 3, 2011
Fat Man went on a diet. He now has 6 bolts instead of 7. The bottom 2 bolts have been "consolidated" into a single bolt. Also, note that a couple of the bolt locations have been moved to the right (bolts #2 & #3 are right of where they used to be). This helps avoid the previous confusion/encroachment with 3 to Get Ready (to the left). After you clip bolt #1 look up and a bit right for bolt #2. Then head between the two dirt patches on your way to the crux. The line is a lot straighter than it used to be.
I think most people will like the minor changes. A few people probably won't even notice (or care).
Also, over time, several small holds appear to have been broken off at the crux. This has now settled, but it's definitely harder than when I first established the route in 2004. I think the crux is more like 5.9 now (instead of 5.8).
Let me know what you think of the minor revisions to the bolt locations and whether the crux is 5.8 or 5.9.
|By Matthew Geyer|
From: Morro Bay
Jun 15, 2011
"I think most people will like the minor changes. A few people probably won't even notice (or care)."
not this again...