Fat Man 

This climb is a welcome addition to the Shadow Wall. After a fun start, the climbing becomes a bit more interesting around the fifth bolt. This route will get better and better as more people climb it -- as of right now it's a bit caked with lichen. Also, there are seven bolts on this climb, not six.

This climb, "Fat Man," was established on rappel with a power drill, a significant and controversial departure from the traditional style (ground-up, hand-drilled ascents) at Bishop's Peak. This practice should be strongly discouraged. There's no reason this climb couldn't have been done in a style consistent with local history and traditions.

This is a one-move wonder, and I wonder why that first bolt exists. Way too close to the ground and the second bolt. It's fairly fun, but requires some route finding and avoiding huge mud patches. It's a nice line. Good first 5.8 lead.

I agree, silly first bolt, but a fun climb

Just to clear things up.The start to Fat Man is also Easy Street. However Fat Man continues up to the shared anchors for 3 to Get Ready and Fat Man. Easy Street traverses left on the low angle slab to the anchors for 1st offense

Definitely 7 bolts. When you drill that many bolts (on rappel) it's hard to remember. You can even move left after bolt 7 & clip the top bolt on 3 to Get Ready for 8 bolts total! Anyway, bring lots of draws.

Several people I talked to thought the crux was harder than 5.8. I think a key hold may have broken off. Any thoughts on the grade?

Still a fun climb. I enjoy it every time I climb it.

john

I clipped into 8 bolts both times when I led it, in November 2008 and May 2009.

Fat Man went on a diet. He now has 6 bolts instead of 7. The bottom 2 bolts have been "consolidated" into a single bolt. Also, note that a couple of the bolt locations have been moved to the right (bolts #2 & #3 are right of where they used to be). This helps avoid the previous confusion/encroachment with 3 to Get Ready (to the left). After you clip bolt #1 look up and a bit right for bolt #2. Then head between the two dirt patches on your way to the crux. The line is a lot straighter than it used to be.

I think most people will like the minor changes. A few people probably won't even notice (or care).

Also, over time, several small holds appear to have been broken off at the crux. This has now settled, but it's definitely harder than when I first established the route in 2004. I think the crux is more like 5.9 now (instead of 5.8).

Let me know what you think of the minor revisions to the bolt locations and whether the crux is 5.8 or 5.9.

John

"I think most people will like the minor changes. A few people probably won't even notice (or care)."


not this again...