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Louis scratching for luck on Fat Lip. Photo by St...
This route is located 20 feet to the left of Terror of Tiny Town. It is the bolted line that leads up and through a roof. It begins with a thin seam crack which deposits you on to a small ledge. Traverse the catwalk to the right for 10 feet clipping 2 bolts along the way to a small left facing dihedral with bolts on the outside. Cruise up the corner and head slightly right through some big flakes. As the flake peters out edge right and find stances in the folds of granite. from under the roof clip the bolt at the lip and get ready to pull extremely HARD up and over onto exciting holds to the chains. Wow!
All bolts. Possibly small nuts and tcu's for the beginning and between bolts 5 and 6 if you are not feeling up to it.
|By Dave Budge|
Oct 18, 2005
One of the funnest routes in the City. Get ready for that last bouldery move at the finish. Take your time. If you cruise the lower section then you've got the technique to do the top problem without having to pull super hard. You can check out the move and retreat back down to the rest. Awesome.
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
Jun 25, 2009
Ridicuously hard to clip the last bolt for me(5'8") before entering the crux.
|By Bad Sock Puppet|
Sep 13, 2009
A must do City sport climb! Start in a tiny seam on two small finger locks until you can reach the jugs. Throw some long runners in at the ledge traverse and fly up the crack. As soon as the crack runs out you're on bomber jugs and crimps until you get high and right. Your feet will run out and you'll have to make two back-to-back tricky transitions between awesome flakes. These moves alone give it four stars. The crux is obviously pulling the roof, but it actually would be really easy if you weren't already pumped. Clip the bolt at the roof before going over. The trick is to get high feet over the roof, and there you have it. So fun!!!
|By dave bingham|
Jun 20, 2011
..clipping the last bolt at the roof - a critical toe hook makes this a breeze as I recall. Otherwise -suffer!