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Fat Free 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Cyndie Brandsford, Tony Sartin & Ann Rodgers, January 1994
Page Views: 394
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Jan 1, 2006
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the bad and the ugly

Description 

This route is on the far right side of the main wall (about 50 feet right of Learn Quick Or Die) and follows thin vertical seams interspersed with face moves past 4 bolts and one fixed pin. The rock is a bit loose in sections, but it is one of the best routes on the cliff.


Protection 

4 bolts, thin to 3 inches



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By Duke
From: Rancho Mirage, CA
Jan 23, 2006

I would call it a soft 10a. Could be a grade harder when it cleans up. Beware of the loose flakes along the left side of the route. I did not notice the fixed pin.

By amax
From: San Diego
Apr 12, 2009

Its really a 5.9+ fun route but the loose stuff is still there at the first section of the climb.

By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Oct 12, 2009

This climb's got all the variety one can look for: thin face moves, a bit of crack climbing up the seams, layback off a thin and loose flake on the left between bolts 2&3, and some power moves to the top. Didn't see any fixed pin, and bolts 2&3 look pretty weathered. Probably a 5.9+ but consider it a 10a between bolts 2 and 3. There's a new sling at the top for anyone to TR this one (couldn't get a the sling out after 15 mins of tugging at it). Pro to 2" near the top. What a blast!

By Bob Gaines
Jan 8, 2010

Kevin Powell and I replaced the four old 1/4 inch bolts today. The pin is long gone, but not critical.

Removed the "sling" at the top which was about 40 feet of 1 inch webbing threaded through a pinch behind a loose block. One of the diciest rappel "anchors" I've ever seen.