A great route that can be done in 2 long pitches. Climb the 1st pitch crack to its end using jams, stems and lay-a-ways, step right and belay on a nice ledge. Natural belay, 200 ft pitch. 5.7
2nd pitch has 2 options.
1st- Move right and finish on the Unfinished Concerto crack.
2nd- (better option)
From the belay move up and left aiming for a notch. Pull the notch and face climb aiming for a couple of slung hemlock trees at 130 ft. 5.7
Rap straight down Chaos out of Control. Double rope rap.
Obvious wide crack left of Unfinished Concerto
Nuts, double cams to 3 inch(optional 4-6 inch piece), many runners
From: western NC
Jan 27, 2012
I usually like a good grovel but this route was lacking in that department -- too many good holds.