Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Columns (aka Skinner Butte)
Select Route:
3rd Column Jam T,TR 
4th Column Jam T,TR 
Bat Crack T,TR 
Chimney, The T,TR 
Crack a No Go T 
Fat Crack T 
Hard Lieback T 
Left Ski Track T,TR 
Limp Dick T 
Main Chimney T,TR 
Satisfaction T 
Transportation Route T,TR 

Fat Crack 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Season: When Dry
Page Views: 1,142
Submitted By: Karsten on Jan 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This is the most popular climb at the columns. It is the largest crack on the right side of the wall. Scramble up a pedestal to access the crack which gradually widens to fist size at the top.

Protection 

Nuts, cams to 4 inches

Belay or rap from chains at top or walk off (5.1)


Comments on Fat Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Feb 2, 2008

Actually, the crack never gets wider than 3 inches and the walk-off, while very exposed, isn't harder than 2nd-3rd class.
By EugeneGuy
Sep 14, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

While I know lots of people who would agree that this is one of their favs at The Columns, for me, it just hurts my feet way to bad (wah). I prefer anything on the Main Buttress, and the chimney. Although, Fat Crack definately deserves it's 3 or 4 star rating.
By Tyler Gates
From: Corvallis, Oregon
Apr 12, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

nice hand crack that shoots striaght up. book rates it as a 5.9 if you only use the crack. 5.8 if you venture outside the crack
By EugeneGuy
Sep 27, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Climbed this again a few weeks ago, and found a new way to jam and stack the toes which was much better.

A couple points of note: This is actually the Outer Collumn Jam, but most refer to it as 'Fat Crack.'

As mentioned above, gear to 3 inches is all that's needed - a couple .75, or 1, then a gold, then blue Camalot gets you to the top. Plug in whatever else you feel comfortable with... Chains at top, rap down is easiest.
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Sep 28, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I disagree with Max's "isn't harder than 2nd-3rd class" comment. While most of the routes on the Main Column have a 2nd-3rd class walkoff, getting to the top of Outer Column definitely has a 4th-low 5th move that will catch you by surprise if you aren't expecting it. Only really an issue if you're setting up a top rope, but that's what most people do at the Columns, so its a legitimate issue.

Incidentally, this and routes to the right get climbed a lot less than other lines at the Columns, and I haven't figured out why. Maybe its that they are all almost pure jamming lines?