A fun climb. This is a study in contrasts, with both pitches equally demanding and memorable. Pitch one is a well-protected, burly roof struggle, while pitch two is a delicate and kinda scary slab.
P1. The route starts by a left-facing groove under the right end of a roof a ways right of Slippage. Wallow up the ugly groove, then monkey out left across This is the obvious flake. This is a juggy dream, all kinds of limbs can be used to help support body weight. Double ropes will allow for no-drag pro while hauling yourself (crux) into the obvious belay niche above.
P2. The second pitch is utterly different! Head carefully up the whitish dike above and slightly right. Though badly protected, this 5.9 climbing is very cool, connecting features on the dike (footholds, sidepulls, etc.) rather than plain old gibbering up a blank slab. As the runout gets worse, the angle eases (as does the rating), so just keep going up to a big belay ledge.
Hand/fist size cams and maybe slings for the flake. Pitch two is pretty runout. Double ropes help with effective protection on the traverse on pitch one.
|Comments on Fat-Bottomed Groove
|By Joe Collins|
Sep 7, 2004
There are some pretty blatant cases in the pantheon of Front Range granite sandbags, but this one may take the cake. Old-school 10+ for sure. Double rope technique isn't crucial, but use of long slings is. Definitely have a couple slings ready to drape over the flakes near the crux. The second pitch looks amazing... I would have liked to have made it that far.
|By Josh Dulberger|
Jul 24, 2011
Single rope worked out fine with runners. The chimney isn't exactly a give-away. Mainly, be cautious about cleaning the route though: currently the 1st pitch ends at some good slings on a horn (about 15 feet above and 6 feet right of the 2 horns in the roof), which all looked bomber. So, figure out gear straight up from the crux (I saw nothing especially obvious - you have a typical Lumpy flaring crack to work with). Otherwise your second won't have a chance to get back on after falling at the crux (which should be expected, it is hard) and should be ready with prussiks. Also - if you're going to rap and clean, be warned: you'll probably need to just re-climb the chimney and monkey-swing, rapping will put you 20 feet left of the chimney.