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Fat Bitches in the Sky 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 20'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
FA: 
Season: All Year
Page Views: 1,444
Submitted By: Davis13au on Dec 24, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

First I didn't name it. Not sure where the name came from. This route is a more of a fun bouldering problem than anything else, though I wouldn't boulder it. The fall down the main face would suck. It's a short few moves at the top of the main face on the main overhang. The route is on the left hand side of the overhang and moves left to right and then up and over on to the top of the main wall. It's a great way to finish a multi pitch climb of the main wall.

Location 

This route starts above the Overhang Approach route. It's on the left side of the main overhang which is in the middle of the main face. It starts kind of where the main overhang and the headwall area meet. It starts in that corner and then moves right and over. There is a small tree that might get in your way on the route.

Protection 

There are no bolts but you could top rope it if you set it up on top and then rappelled down to the start. If you are coming up from the below you will need maybe a nut and a sling to protect the few moves up and over.


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By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jul 1, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Thought this guy was well protected. Wander a bit to find the pro. Not really worth it considering the balance climbs next door.
By Mark O'Neal
From: Nicholson, GA
Sep 7, 2015

Either the above description is off or Dixie Craggers is off. But someone is wrong. We followed the topo/description (5.6 PG13) in Dixie Craggers and it went as follows:

P1: Start right of the balance climb cable following a crack. Climb up to the ledge with the cable. Clip the bolt on the cable if you want to avoid the PG13 rating, then head towards an obvious down facing flake for pro (you can see this from the ground). Get some gear in then step around up and right onto the face. Head straight up through ample gear. Gear belay wherever or continue up almost a full 60m to a corner at the 1st overhang where there is a ledge with a good gear belay.

P2: Fire the short corner (boulder problem?). I found the corner to be easier than it looked and you can avoid the dirtiness by staying out on the right edge. Belay from a tree. Rap down the cable route

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