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Talking Headwall
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Fat Bastard 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,498
Submitted By: Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Fat Bastard

Description 

The crux is pulling through the roof and finding the holds. This is a great route for new leaders. Intimidating (very short) roof with jug holds. Great 5.7 warm up. Clip 4 bolts on easy 5.4 climbing, then clip 1 more through the roof to the anchors.

Location 

The small roof directly to the right of the big roof. You can't miss the big roof. This is the last bolted route before the trail begins to ascend the hill on the right side of the crag.

Protection 

5 bolts and ring anchors.


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By Vicki Schwantes
From: Washington, DC
Oct 31, 2010

The right D ring on the anchor spins.
By J Walpole
May 13, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great route, this was my first lead ever!