|669 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10+ [details]|
|FA: ||Jim Scott, EFR, Ben Morin, Robert McLeod, Emily Cheng|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Spring, Fall, Winter|
|Submitted By: ||1Eric Rhicard on May 8, 2006|
BETA PHOTO: Climber working a new route just left of Fat Apach...
The last ten feet are the business. The bottom has some great well protected crack climbing. The top can be finished two ways. Off width it or stem it. The latter may be a letter grade harder but easier if your OW technique is not too good or you happen to be facing the wrong way in the crack.
This route is about thirty feet up the hill to the left of where the trail reaches Westworld Dome. It is quite obvious to the right of the cave the last rappel off of Warpaint drops you in to.
Doubles on cams to #3 Camalot were used with a pretty exciting run on a single #4 to the top. So if you really want it safe bring a #5 Camalot. Anchors are at the top.
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Jun 4, 2006
Fat Apache is the crack to the right of climber in the photo.
|By Scott Bennett|
From: Colorado, etc
Feb 11, 2008
Does anyone know the name/grade of route to the left of this, the one with the climber on it in the photo above? I got on it, the climbing was great and felt mid 5.11ish for the first 5 bolts or so, but I couldn't make it past the upper roof and had to bail. Go send it and get a biner!
Feb 13, 2008
EFR and I bolted this thing last year, then got all out of shape and couldn't do it. (Wait that would assume we were actually ever in shape last year)
Anyway, we've dogged our way through all the moves a few times, it's somewhere around 12c/d. The moving gets hard at the roof you bailed from and stays hard to the top. Sustained and sequential.
Way to go getting on the thing!
We are planning (hoping) to redpoint this route and a few more in the area this spring. But feel free to keep working it, it's an open project as far as I'm concerned.